Showing posts with label Lower Winni. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lower Winni. Show all posts

Saturday, April 30, 2022

Lower Winni – April 30 2022

Surf wave below the put-in
I’d been fighting a cold all week, but I really wanted to do the last class III step-up paddle with the NHAMC. This week’s trip was on the Lower Winni – another river that I've wanted to run in my canoe for a long time. The weather was right, the level was right, the group was right and I was felling OK, so I went and I'm glad I did.

The Winnipesaukee River (also known as the Winni) is a 10-mile river that that runs from Lake Winnipesaukee to Franklin where it joins with the Pemigewasset River to form the Merrimack. There are two whitewater runs on the Winnipesaukee.

Running Coliseum
The Upper Winni from Tilton Road to Riverfront Park in Tilton is an easy class I/II run that is the site of an annual slalom race. It was one of the first trips that I did with the NHAMC way back in 2006, and I have run it many times since.

The Lower Winni from the Cross Mill Road Bridge in Northfield to Trestle View Park in Franklin is a class III(+) run from 1,000 cfs to 1,500 cfs. Above 1,500 cfs some of the rapids become class IV. I ran it in a shredder at 1,100 cfs on New Year’s Day several years ago. The level on this run was 3.6 ft, 725 cfs (class II+/III) - a good beginner and open boat level.

Above Railroad
We met at the put-in at the Cross Mill Road Bridge to run the shuttle. It’s a relatively short run of about a mile-and-a-half, so people often do multiple runs. The river started off with waves and rocks as we ran through Snowmobile and Iron Ring. Even at this level there is lots of potential for a pinned boat or a nasty swim. 

The first major rapid is known as Coliseum. At higher water levels this can be a very dangerous rapid since about a third of the river channels into the foundation of an old mill building on the right – the “Room of Doom”. I took the left line catching the eddy at the top, and then running down the left side avoiding the wall on the left and the rocks in the center.

Approaching Zippy's 
Another half-mile downstream is the next major rapid – Railroad. The river splits around the center support for a railroad bridge with routes on the right and the left. The right side has a 3' drop that we took twice when I ran this in the shredder - once resulting in a swim. This time I took the left line staying just to the right of the large rocks on the left side. 

There were more rocks and waves as we ran through Sulphite to the last rapid - Zippy's Final Plunge. Unfortunately, there was wood in the usual lines through Zippy’s, so we took out above. One run was enough for me - I made it down fine and considered myself lucky. I did walk up the Winnipesaukee River Trail to get some pictures of the crew going through Railroad on their second run. 

Waiting for the rest of the crew at Railroad

Saturday, January 2, 2021

History of the New Year’s Day Paddle on the Lower Winni by Ken Norton

Skip Church asked me to give a history of the New Year’s Day Paddle on the Winnipesaukee River - here’s what I know….

With the potential for the end of whitewater paddling on the lower Winnipesaukee River on the horizon, the first formal New Year’s Day paddle began on January 1, 1998. Local developers, under the name Franklin Hydroelectric, had filed with the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission (FERC)in 1992 to study construction of a new hydro dam on the lower Winni (project no 11281-000). The proposed 150 foot long and 22-foot-high dam was to be located on the Franklin/Tilton town line just downstream of the bridge on Cross Mill Road. The proposal also included a 12-foot (later increased to 14 foot) diameter penstock running ¾ of a mile downstream to a hydro generating plant just above the Trestle in Franklin. The penstock would effectively dewater the river. Under the organizational name Friends of the Winnipesaukee River, I filed a motion to intervene with FERC on Behalf of the Merrimack Valley Paddlers (MVP), the Central Canoe and Kayak Club, Belknap County Sportsman Association, Basil Woods Chapter of Trout Unlimited, and Ducks unlimited.

In 1988, Friends of the Winnipesaukee River had previously intervened with FERC on a similar proposal on the lower Winni (project #10476-000). It is interesting to note that the Merrimack Valley Paddlers had declined to be included as an intervenor in that proposal stating the Lower Winni was “rarely” used by MVP members and due to it being “trashy (rebar debris etc.).” The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) also declined. From a historical perspective, the Winnipesaukee River carried raw sewage and was not considered a recreational resource until the completion of the Winnipesaukee River Basin project around 1980. The project laid sewer lines from Meredith/Center Harbor to Franklin and included newly constructed sewage treatment plants in Laconia and Franklin. With deference to the Abenaki and Penacook people who traversed the Winnipesaukee River for centuries, the first known modern day whitewater descent of the Lower Winni (I’m sure there were previous ones) took place around 1983/4 and included a cohort of NH’s best paddlers: Sonny Hunt, Mark Ciborowski, Brad Helfer, John Aldridge, Bill Zeller, and Jim Sindelar. (They were mostly canoers - WW kayaking was only starting to take off. The Perception Dancer which popularized and revolutionized the sport, came out in 1982) . Rebar poked a hole in Jim’s boat, and word soon spread in the paddling community to avoid the Lower Winni. However, seeing the potential for a great white water run, they returned armed with portable sawzalls and began removing rebar, dam remnants, trees, trash and other obstacles. Other paddlers including also took up the cause. But I diverge from the story…..

Unlike the previous dam proposals on the Lower Winni (there were 3 others in the past decade), this proposal had a high likelihood of moving forward. The developers were local and had constructed the Clement Dam in Tilton several years earlier. They had the engineering skills, knowledge of the Winnipesaukee River, and financial backing to pull it off. They had also been filing required reports with FERC and making progress on their proposal.

In an effort to foster mutual interests of paddlers and hydro producers, Friends of the Winnipesaukee had previously partnered with these developers on Earth Day events including tours of the Clement Dam. Based on that relationship, the developer agreed to a meeting at Cross Mill Road with myself Representing Friends of the Winnipesaukee River, and George May from the MVP to discuss their proposal and concerns of the paddling community and other interested parties. The meeting was sobering; the developer drove off leaving George and I standing on the bridge talking about the seriousness of the threat, the lack of any common interests between the proposed dam and paddling, and brainstorming strategies for how to generate more public opposition to the dam proposal. Solutions identified included having a high visibility New Year’s Day paddle which would increase the awareness and interests of recreational opportunities on the Lower Winni and engage local stakeholders in promoting those efforts and opposing the dam proposal.

Running the Winni on New Year's Day wasn’t entirely a new thing, the River Rats, a group of folks from the Lakeport area, had been doing it off and on in tubes, during the 80’s. Fred Zimmerman, one of the River Rats, had taken up whitewater paddling and Fred had invited a few kayakers to join the River Rats on one of their New Years’ Day runs in the late 80’s. It should be noted that cold weather gear then was pretty limited. Dry suits were relatively new and few paddlers had them. When I paddled with Fred and the River Rats on one of those runs, we had farmer john wetsuits and wore nylon shells/jackets over them. Fred wore Playtex gloves which he duct taped to his wrists. I wore nylon ski over-mitts. The following year Fred enticed a few more paddlers by offering lunch afterwards. He was a good cook and served shells stuffed with Ricotta and pieces of Italian sausage. His apartment in Northfield was tiny and could only seat two people at a time. There were only a few intrepid paddlers those first couple of years, and we would have a beer out in the parking lot and take turns going up to Fred’s apartment for lunch.

What was envisioned was building on this informal tradition by formalizing it. We would attract more paddlers by renting a hall/offering a warm place to change, and serving lunch afterward. We would encourage spectators by publicizing it, and doing it at a set time, not the old “MVP time” of whenever everyone finally showed up. And we would engage the media by issuing press releases, offering interview and quotes, and by changing the narrative from focusing on wild people paddling in the cold to people paddling in the cold for a cause - opposing the dam and promoting the Lower Winnipesaukee as a recreational resource.

The first year was a big success with about 30 paddlers and great media coverage locally, statewide and throughout New England. The MVP rented the Masonic Hall in Tilton, and Fred cooked for everyone. Momentum and coverage built over the next few years with less experienced paddlers doing the Upper Winni. We made a big splash in 2000, when we capitalized on the Y2K hysteria by hosting a Y2Kayak New Year’s Day Event. In subsequent years, Hall rental moved from Tilton to Franklin and Nancy Gero (and John) took over cooking/hosting duties. The MVP gave annual awards to local people who helped promote recreation on the Winnipesaukee River. With paddlers returning to paddle the Lower Winni throughout the year, the Franklin community began to embrace the event and the role recreation could play in Franklin’s rebirth. Toward that end, the economic development group Choose Franklin adopted the event as First Day Franklin and began setting up a warming tent for spectators and paddlers.

Another threat to whitewater paddling on the Lower Winni was safe take-out access. The takeout was the parking lot of The Silver Bullet, a nefarious Franklin bar. It was a Class III+ take out which included a poor eddy line, lots and lots of broken glass, and a crumbling 10 foot brick wall between the river and parking lot, which involved passing boats up over the wall and climbing a broken ladder to get out – or trying to climb the ladder with your boat. The bar burned down and the lot was put up for sale. Had it been sold and the river fenced or blocked off, it would have essentially ended paddling the Lower Winni as there were no alternative take outs. Having watched the growing numbers of paddlers, and with encouragement from the Winnipesaukee River Trail Association (WRTA), the Grevior family bought the land, put it into conservation easement for perpetuity, and worked with the WRTA, the City of Franklin, the National Park Service and others to create Trestle View Park which opened in 2005.

Faced with growing opposition and construction costs, uncertainties about electric utility regulation, and a city that was now embracing whitewater paddling and river recreation as a driver of economic development, plans for hydro development of this section of river were dropped. With the success of using the New Year’s Day paddle to highlight opposition to a hydro project which would have dewatered the Winnipesaukee River, the annual New Year’s Day Paddle has been used to raise awareness of other important issues including construction of the Winnipesaukee River Trail, and Trestle View Park, inclusion of a take-out ramp at Riverfront Park in Tilton (2006), proposed summer whitewater releases, and most recently construction of Mill City Park and New England’s first whitewater park. Whether a paddler, or spectator, come on out and join the fun on New Years’ Day!

Newspaper article from the Laconia Citizen on the 1998 run

Saturday, January 2, 2016

First Swim of 2016 – Winni Icicle Run – January 1, 2016

The boats are loaded
As I was driving up to New Hampshire I heard a report on the radio about all the college football “bowl games” that would be played on New Year’s Day.  The final comment was that it would be a “great day to hang out on the couch”.  I don’t think so!  I was on my way up to First Day in Franklin to paddle the New Year’s Day Icicle Run with the Merrimack Valley Paddlers.

New Year’s Day trips are a tradition among northeast whitewater paddlers, and probably many others.  I’ve spent New Year’s Day on the Branch River, at Fife Brook on the Deerfield, and at Crystal and Tville on the Farmington.  This would be my first run at the best known of these events – the Merrimack Valley Paddler (MVP) run on the Lower Winni. 

At the put-in
The Winnipesaukee River (otherwise known as the Winni) is a 10-mile river that that runs from Lake Winnipesaukee to Franklin where it joins with the Pemigewasset River to form the Merrimack.  There are two distinct sections of the Winni. The upstream section connects a chain of lakes from Lake Winnipesaukee to Winnisquam Lake, and finally to Silver Lake.  The lower section begins at Silver Lake and passes though Tilton before entering a narrow valley that runs into Franklin. 

There are two whitewater runs as the Winnipesaukee flows through Tilton and Franklin. The Upper Winni runs from Tilton Road to Riverfront Park in Tilton.  It’s an easy class I/II run that is the site of an annual slalom race.  I have run a couple of times in the past. 

The first shredder heads out
The Lower Winni runs from Cross Mill Road Bridge to the Trestle View Park in Franklin.  This is a class III(+) run that is a little above my comfort level in my canoe. When I heard that the MVP would be doing shredder runs, I jumped at the opportunity. This would give me a chance to see the rapids at this higher water level, and what can go wrong in a shredder.  Famous last words!

A shredder is a two-man cataraft designed specifically for paddling big whitewater. It is relatively easy to control with forward and backstrokes, and is very stable as long as you keep it straight and moving forward as you punch through holes and drops.

I
Taking the left line at Coliseum
would be one six paddlers in the MVP’s three shredders.  We met at the Unitarian Universalist Church at the other end of Central Street from Trestle View Park to change and inflate the boats. We then shuttled up to the put-in at the Cross Mill Road Bridge. The river was at a typical level for this event – 4 feet, 1,100 cfs.  Above 1,500 cfs. several of the rapids are rated class IV.  I’d like to do a first run in my canoe at between 500 cfs and 700 cfs.   It’s a relatively short run at about a mile-and-a-half, and most people run it a couple of times. 

The river starts off with waves and rocks as we ran through Snowmobile and Iron Ring.  The first major rapid is known as Coliseum. At higher water levels this can be a very dangerous rapid since about a third of the river channels into the foundation of an old mill building – the “Room of Doom”. At higher water levels there is a centerline that follows a boulder-strewn drop to the left of the foundation wall.  Most paddlers take the left line that catches an eddy and takes you in “Z” pattern through the rapid avoiding the rock in the center. We went left on both runs.

View from the bridge of Zippy's
Another half-mile downstream is the next major rapid – Railroad. The river splits around the center trestle of a railroad bridge with routes on the right and the left.  The left channel is probably easier, but we went right on both runs where there is a 3-foot drop directly below the bridge.  We punched through the drop fine on the first run, but on the second we got turned sideways in the hole.  As we got sucked back into the hole, I hit the current coming down the drop and got swept off the boat. It was a short swim, and fortunately Bob was able to stay in the boat. I was soon back on board and we continued downstream

There were more rocks and waves as we ran through Sulphite to the the last rapid - Zippy's Final Plunge.  The river runs under another railroad bridge – this time with three abutments creating five channels.  The second channel from the left is usually the easiest, with the middle channel being passable at higher water.  We hit the middle channel perfectly on our first run. On our second run, we lined up to run the middle channel, but drifted too far left.  At the last minute we shifted hard to the left and hit the left channel.

First run through Zippy's
We took out at Trestle View Park and enjoyed some hot chocolate and chili between runs.  The Central Street Bridge was closed for most of the morning to allow spectators to watch the paddlers coming through Zippy’s.  It was a great event.


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