Forth Swim of the Year – West River – September 21, 2024

Paul portaging the dam

It’s been a long time since I’ve had my whitewater boat out, so I decided to join Paul for a run on the West River. Unfortunately, the shuttle wasn’t running, so we would need to carry down the dam to the put-in. We met at 7:00 at Mc’D’s for the ride up to Jamaica, VT. I followed Paul so we would have two cars for the shuttle.

The plan was to do two runs carrying down the dam with my canoe cart. As it worked out, we couldn’t use the cart for Paul’s boat, and it was a little tricky even with just my canoe. Once I got down to the bottom I also realized that I didn’t want to have the cart strapped to my boat for the run. If I swam, which I did, the boat would be even harder to rescue, and more likely to pin. I left it at the put in.

Tandem canoe running Initiation

I took some pictures of folks running the top of Initiation before we headed out. At this level – around 1,300 cfs – there was a shoot down the center that terminated in a hole, so you needed to cut to one side or another. Paul went left, I went right. Once you are through that first drop, it’s a long wave train to the bottom. I pulled over to empty when we got down to the bridge.

I filled up again in the rapid below the bridge, and had to pull over to empty. I filled up again in the rapid above boof rock. Unfortunately, before I pulled over to empty I got pushed left, just caught the edge of boof rock, and flipped – swim number 4 for the year. I took me a little while to swim out, but Paul was able to corral my boat.

Paul heading down on his second run

The run through the Dumplings was uneventful – stay close to the rocks, and then hug the seam to the left of the large standing waves. Of course, I had to empty my boat out again at the bottom. We took out after the bridge at Jamaica State Park.

I didn’t feel up for a second run on the upper section, but I did want to do the lower section. We ran the shuttle down to the take out for the lower section at the Route 100 Bridge, then headed back to the put-in at the Ball Mountain Dam. Paul did his second run, and I carried my cart back up the dam. I met him at the put in for the lower section.

Running the lower section

The lower section was a little more active than I remember – easier than the top, but still worth the effort. There was a huge line of cars at the take out – everyone had the same idea. We packed up, got changed and headed out.

We stopped for pizza on the way home at Brattleboro Village Pizza. From there I got on I-91, and Paul took the back roads home.

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West River gage

White River - Stockbridge to Bethel - April 28, 2024

Running the Ledge Drop

First was Easter, then I got sick with the flu, then I had other family issues to deal with, so I didn’t do much paddling in April. Fortunately, I was able to catch Bob’s trip on the White River in Vermont.

The White River arises in the Green Mountains and flows south and then east through the hills and farmland of central Vermont before emptying into the Connecticut River at White River Junction. When the river is up there are miles of quickwater and easy rapids to enjoy. Two of the most popular sections are Granville to Stockbridge and Stockbridge to Bethel (Upper on American Whitewater). I had paddled the section from Granville to Stockbridge twice before (1, 2), so I was glad we would be paddling the section from Stockbridge to Bethel on this trip. The trip is around 11-miles, and I would be paddling tandem in my Mohawk Whitewater 16 with Bill.

Running the Ledge Drop

We needed to meet the group at the bridge over Route 100 in Stockbridge at 10:00, so Bill was at my house at 6:00 for the 3-hour drive up to the put-in. We had rain on-and-off as we drove through NH and VT, but it stopped by the time entered Stockbridge. We arrived at the put-in at about 9:45, and the rest of the group was ready to go. We quickly got unloaded and ran the shuttle down to Peavine Park in Bethel.

We launched at 10:45 and headed downstream with 9 boats – 1 tandem, 3 solos and 5 polers. This section of the river starts off much like the section above with quickwater and easy riffles. The river was a little on the low side at 5’, 1,500 cfs on the West Hartford gage – perfect for the polers, but a little low for the paddlers. Rock-dodging was the order of the day and we had to pick our lines carefully to avoid the shallows. 

Running the Ledge Drop

The river runs along Route 107 for almost the entire trip. We stopped for lunch just below the bridge at Blackmer Boulevard. There are two class II(+) rapids below the Blackmer Bridge – the first a rocky ledge drop that we ran to the left, and the second is a shoot with large waves that we ran center/right. From there it was more quickwater and rock-dodging down to the take-out.

With a long drive home ahead of us, Bill and I packed up our gear, said our goodbyes, and got on our way. The rain started up again just as we were pulling out – lucky us. There is also the Lower section below Bethel that I would like to try sometime.


White River from Erik Eckilson on Vimeo

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West Hartford Gage
White River - Granville to Bethel
White River - Bethel to West Hartford

White - Hancock to Stockbridge – May 2, 2021

Warm and dry to start

It always happens when you least suspect it, and that is why you need to live by the Boy Scout motto – be prepared. Yesterday I wasn’t.

I was joining a group to paddle the White River from Hancock to Stockbridge in VT – (all canoes - 2 tandem, 3 poling and 3 solo). It’s a beautiful, 11-mile quickwater trip through the hills and cow fields of central VT. It’s also a three-hour drive for me, and I was running late. I was the last to arrive at the put-in, and I could tell by the looks when I drove in that the rest of the group was ready to go.

Cold and wet in the middle

As far as I knew the forecast for the day was sunny and warm, but I hadn’t checked in a few days. I didn’t want to hold the group up any longer so I grabbed my boundary boots, left my hat, drysuit and spare cloths in the car, and headed out. It would be fine. Its just quickwater, and the river was at a nice level – 6.5 feet, 3,500 cfs.

About a mile downstream I was navigating through a boney section of quickwater and it happened. I hit a rock and over I went. The recovery was quick, but the damage was done. I was sopping wet. I got my boat to shore, put on my splash top (the only spare cloths that I had) and hoped for the best. I’d be fine when sun came out.

Wet but warm at the end

Unfortunately, the sun didn’t come out. Instead, it started to rain. The clouds increased and we had a torrential downpour. Everyone pulled out their raingear, but I just got colder and wetter. I was able to borrow a hat from Bob, and that helped for a while. When my teeth started to chatter I knew I needed to get some dry cloths. I borrowed a fleece from Jonathan, and replaced the wet shirt under my splash top. That felt much better, and I started to warm up.

Fortunately, the rain eventually stopped, and the sun did come out. By the time we reached the take out it was sunny and warm, but it is still a lesson learned (or an important reminder) – BE PREPARED! Fortunately for me this time, my paddling friends were.

Blue sky at the take out

If nothing else, at least I earned another poem from Tom on p-net:

Whatever doesn’t kill us,

just might make us stronger.

But some so-called friends dip in their dry bags

to address undry bagless so much wronger.

Twas good the hat and fleece of canoe’s companions

was there to unsaturate your fish-count way,

else baggy plaid pants and bridesmaid chiffon you dance,

such friendly fashion sense of ole Mike McCrea.

(Whyyy, he wouldn’t ease yer shiverin’ any other way!)

Just don’t wet-exit a second time, because you don’t want to see what’s inside that purple drybag Sharpied, “Victoria Shoulda Kept It a Secret/Dammit Eric!”

TW

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River Description from American Whitewater

Planning for Spring Camping - Connecticut River - Wilder Dam to Bellows Falls

Its time to start thinking about our spring camping trip. If we continue down the Connecticut River, the next section is Wilder Dam to Bellows Falls  - looks like a nice 3-night trip.

Put-in - Wilder Dam – mile 218

First Night - Burnaps Island Campsite – mile 212 - located on NH side about 3 miles below the mouth of the Mascoma River and the I-89 bridge at West Lebanon, and just above the mouth of the Ottauquechee River. Access is from the west side of the island, on the main channel.

Portage - Sumner Falls – mile 206 - take out on river right on rocky ledge (look for sign). Follow trail up to dirt road that leads down to a sandy put-in. Length: 285 yards

Intermediate Campsite - Burnham Meadow Campsite – mile 205 - located on the Vermont side four miles below Sumner Falls, 1 mile below Hart Island, and 3 miles above the Windsor-Cornish covered bridge. On an elevated bench just south of Bashan Brook, where the river bends to the east. Take out is about 50 yards south of Bashan Brook.

Second Night - Wilgus State Park Campground – mile 196 – on the VT side just past the mouth of the Sugar River (NH) Beautiful and popular campsite

Intermediate Campsite - SCA Campsite – mile189 – on the NH side two miles below Hubbard Island. Access to the site is up a short, but somewhat steep trail with box/check steps. The site sits in an area with hemlocks overlooking the river and adjacent to a field. It includes three tent platforms, a composting toilet, and a small network of trails. Fires are not permitted - stoves only.

Third Night - Lower Meadow Campsite – mile 178 – on NH side with two tent platforms and space for another 2-3 tents on the ground. A nice fire-ring, and a composting privy. Easy access from river, and good swimming.

Take out - Bellows Falls – mile 176

Three night trip is 42 miles with one portage and a couple of long days - 16 miles and a portage on day 2, 18 miles on day 3.

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Connecticut River Paddlers Trail

Westfest – September 21, 2019

Below the put-in

I headed off with Paul for our annual trip to Westfest. I was looking forward to getting my new Outrage out in some real whitewater.

I met Paul at the usual place at the usual time – McD’s at 7:00. I decided to follow Paul’s advice and take the back roads up to VT. Our route took us up Rt. 140 to Keene and then across Rt. 9 to Brattleboro. One of the reasons that I prefer the highway is that you don’t have to worry about speeding tickets as speed limit gets reduced though residential areas. Well, it happened – I got nabbed with ticket somewhere south of Keene on a short section of road where the speed limit dropped to 35 mph.  

Running the Dumplings

Our slight delay meant that we were late getting into Jamaica State Park. We got in line for the shuttle at around 10:00. Others were already lining up for a second run. The line was long, and we got on the water around 11:00. The new Outrage felt a little twitchy at first, but soon settled down. It does a great job of bouncing over waves (seems dryer than my old Encore), but I found that I needed to hold the lean longer on eddy turns and ferries.

My first run through the Dumplings was a little low, and I just missed the big hole on the left, but I made it through fine. The line for the shuttle was even longer for our second run. We ended up doing four runs total. We did our third run with Dave D, so that tradition continues. The river peaked at 1,500 cfs. at around 1:00, and started its slow decline. It was noticeably lower by our last run at around 3:30.  Good time as always. 

Happy paddler

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Planning for the Connecticut River - Orford to the Wilder Dam

Another section that I would like to do sometime is the 21-miles below Orford:

Put in - Orford Boat Landing – mile 240 - improved ramp and dock.

Intermediate Campsite - Birch Meadow Campsite - mile 238 - two miles below Orford on the VT side, on a low wooded point just above the marshland at the outlet of Lake Morey.

First Night - Roaring Brook Campsite – mile 235 - grassy site between two brooks on the VT side

Second Night - Patchen's Point Campsite – mile 224 – a pleasant and roomy camping spot nestled in a grove of White Pines north of Hanover on the VT side. Warning - this can be a popular hang-out spot for local kids, especially on weekend nights.

Intermediate Campsite - Gilman Island Campsite – mile 220 – a popular group campsite on Gilman Island provided by Great River Hydro on the south tip of the island, managed through a partnership with LL Bean's Outdoor Discovery School in West Lebanon, NH.

Take out - Wilder Dam Portage – mile 219 - unimproved path, car-top access only.

Maybe in the fall.

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Connecticut River Paddlers Trail

Planning for the Connecticut River - Mount Orne Covered Bridge (Lunenburg) to Woodville

Bill and I have been working our way through the weekend trips on the Upper Connecticut River. We've done the sections from Canaan, VT to Blooomfield, VT, Bloomfield, VT to Lunenburg, VT and Woodsville, NH to Orford, NH. With the easy stuff done, its time to deal with the dams on the section from Lunenburg to the Woodville - 39-miles, five dams, three (or maybe four) nights. Here's a potential itinerary: 

Put-in - Mount Orne Covered Bridge – mile 307- small parking area and hand-carry launch, just south of the Mount Orne Covered Bridge on the Vermont side of the river.

Portage and Intermediate Campsite - Gilman Dam – mile 302- take out river left on the NH side in a small cove marked by a portage sign. Follow trail through grassy field where camping is allowed. Put in after the dam. (Length: 0.2. Percentage wheelable: 0.95.)

First Night - Dalton Primitive Campsite – mile 299- located just north of the high tension line that crosses the narrow, north arm of the reservoir, on the New Hampshire side.

Portage - Moore Dam - mile 290- take out river right on the VT side and descend along a well-marked portage trail, mostly on grass. (Length: 0.33. Percentage wheelable: 0.95.)

Second Night - Moore Primitive Campsite – mile 290- recently established campsite for paddlers only on the NH side. Features include five tent platforms, picnic tables, and fire rings. No toilet facilities (yet) but one can walk about 1/4 mile downriver on the trail to the boatramp and use its porta potty.

Portage - Comerford Dam – mile 282 - take out river left on the NH side by boat access. Walk along dam access road before descending the steep, mowed embankment adjacent to the dam. Descend stairs to a path. Walk downstream toward a gravelly beach. Warning - river levels can rise unexpectedly here - by as much as 3'! Do not leave unattended gear close to the river, and listen for sirens. (Length: 0.36. Percentage wheelable: 0.75.)

Third Night - Stevenson Campsite – mile 280 - located on a shady river terrace on the NH side of the river, across from the north end of Stevens Island.

Portage - McIndoe Falls Portage – mile 276 - take out river left on the NH side and follow timber access stairs up to McIndoes Falls Rd. Follow path across road down to a landing beach. (Length: 0.1. Percentage wheelable: 0.5)

Optional Forth Night - Stephan's Island Campsite – mile 273 - peaceful island with sandy beach, towering pines, and rocky knoll located on the second island between McIndoe Falls and Dodge Falls. 

Optional Forth Night - Fiddlehead Island Campsite – mile 273 - a large but often overgrown campsite located on the third wooded island between McIndoe Falls and Dodge Falls. 

Optional Forth Night - Dodge Falls Campsite – mile 272 - small campsite at the portage of Ryegate Dam, about .5 miles north of Dodge Falls. Small shelter. Portable toilet near dam.

Portage - Ryegate Dam – mile 272 - take out river left after sharp bend. Follow trail past the campsite, along edge of field, down an access road, and along a rough path to the river. Warning - put-in is rocky with difficult footing. (Length: 0.3. Percentage wheelable: 0.8.) 

Take out - Woodsville Access – mile 268 - small, sandy beach in town of Woodsville. Downstream of bridge, on Connecticut Street. Unimproved ramp, car-top access only.

This one we are planning to do in the spring.

Link:
Connecticut River Paddlers Trail

Connecticut River Camping - Woodsville to Orford - October 6 - 8, 2018

Woodville Access

Bill arrived at my house at my house at 6:00 a.m. for the drive up to New Hampshire. We planned to be at the boat launch in Orford, NH by 10:00 a.m. for our next trip on the Connecticut River. 

The Connecticut River is the longest river in New England flowing south for approximately 400 miles from the Canadian border through four states before emptying into Long Island Sound. With work and family obligations, its tough for me to do long camping trips, so Bill and I have been doing 3-day trips on the upper Connecticut River. We ran the section from Bloomfield, VT to Lunenburg, VT last fall. In the spring, we ran the section from Canaan, VT to Blooomfield, VT. This trip would be on the section from Woodsville, NH to Orford, NH. 

Bath-Haverhill Covered Bridge

When we arrived at the boat launch in Orford (mile 240), Al and Jonathan were already there, and Conrad arrived shortly after. With the crew complete, we consolidated our gear for trip up to Woodsville (mile 268).  We put-in at a small beach off Connecticut Street just below the Route 302/Railroad Street Bridge. 

Before heading downstream, we paddled upstream to the mouth of the Ammonoosuc River to see the Bath-Haverhill Covered Bridge. Built in 1827, this bridge is the oldest covered bridge in the State of New Hampshire. The bridge was closed in 1999 and restored for foot traffic in 2004. After checking out the bridge, we started our trip downstream.

Hartdale Farm

About 2 miles below the Route 302/Railroad Street Bridge we came to the Howard Island Campsite (mile 265) on the New Hampshire side – a grassy campsite accessible from a cobblestone bank. We continued downstream to our destination for the evening - Harkdale Farm Campsite (mile 259). Hartdale Farm is a wooded site on the VT side. We set up the camp, gathered firewood, and had a nice supper of fried fish and Maine guide potatoes cooked by Jonathan before settling in around the campfire for the night.

We awoke the next morning to drizzle, so I took my tent down early to try to keep it dry. I got the fire lit and the coffee started, and Jonathan prepared a tradition English breakfast with eggs-in-a-hole, sausage and fried tomatoes. After a leisurely breakfast, we packed up and headed out for our 13-mile paddle down to the Underhill Campsite. 

Paddle the Border Cookout

After 4-miles we took a break at Bedell Bridge State Park (mile 255) – the site of an old covered bridge.  As we continued past the Newbury Boat Launch (beside the Haverhill/Newbury Bridge on the VT side), we noticed lots of kayaks heading downstream. We learned that this was the Paddle the Border event sponsored by the Upper Valley Land Trust, who maintains many of the campsites on the VT side. About 100 participants were headed down to Bugbee Landing for a cookout and music by the Strawberry Farm Band. It sounded good to us, so we joined in. 

We paddled past the Vaughan Meadow Campsite (mile 253) – a wooded campsite on the VT side about a mile below the old Bedell Bridge abutment. After another 4-miles we came to the Waits River on river right. We paddled a short way up the Waits River to the Bugbee Landing in Bradford (mile 249).  We had our fill of hamburgers, hot dogs and pulled pork, and enjoyed the bluegrass music before heading out again.  From there, we had about 4-miles to paddle to the Underhill Campsite.  (Camping is also allowed at Bugbee Landing in a mowed area adjacent to the boat launch.)

Heading to the Take-out

The Underhill Campsite (mile 246) is located just west of Piermont Village at the mouth of Eastman Brook. It is a wooded site up a steep bank on the New Hampshire side of the river. We lugged our gear up the stairs and followed our usual routine - set up camp, gather firewood, cook supper (pasta and sauce prepared by Bill), and then gather around the campfire for the night.

We awoke the next day to foggy skies and mist. Once again Jonathan prepared breakfast, and then we packed up for the final leg of our journey. The Connecticut River is not known for its wilderness feel, but this section seemed a little more remote with hemlocks lining the banks in several sections. We also paddled past the steep cliffs of Saywer Mountain and the Palisades in Fairlee, VT before taking out at Orford Boat Launch (mile 240) near the Pastures Campground.  The rain started just as we pulled out of the boat launch for the ride home. Perfect timing.

Connecticut River from Erik Eckilson on Vimeo.

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Packing for the Upper Connecticut River Trip

I started packing for next weekend’s trip on the Connecticut River. The last two trips have been in the Great North Woods. This time we will be a little further south in the Upper Valley. We will be doing 28-miles in three days from Woodsville, NH to Orford, VT.  

Put-in - Woodsville Access – mile 268 – a small, sandy beach in town of Woodsville, NH downstream of the bridge on Connecticut Street. 

Intermediate Campsite - Howard Island Campsite - mile 265 - about 2 miles below the Woodsville Bridge. The northern campsite is located at the northeast end of this island with access on a moderately-sloped cobblestone bank. The southern campsite is at the southwestern corner of the island.

First night- Harkdale Farm Campsite – mile 259– campsite on the VT side at second large oxbow downstream of Howard Island, across from high eroding sand bank that meets small brook with fallen trees.

Intermediate Access - Bedell Bridge State Park – mile 255 - boat ramp and picnic area at a park on the site of a former covered bridge. 

Intermediate campsite - Vaughan Meadow Campsite – mile 253- located on the Vermont side one mile below the old Bedell Bridge abutment. Located on a wooded bank after the river turns from SE to S, a few hundred yards north of the Bradford line.

Intermediate Access/Campsite - Bugbee Landing Access Point/Campsite – mile 248 – a small dock and boat ramp at the mouth of Waits River. The school allows camping in a mowed area adjacent to the boat launch.

Second night - Underhill Campsite – mile 246- past Bug's Island and located on the NH side at the mouth of Eastman Brook, before the river veers west.

Take-out - Orford Boat Landing – mile 240

I got all my camping gear together, but I still need to figure out the food. The weather should be nice, and hopefully the foliage will be peak.

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Connecticut River Paddlers Trail

Westfest - September 22, 2018

The first shuttle

Some people said it was the last day of summer. Other people said it was the first day of fall. Either way, it was a great day to be on the water, and I spent it on the West River in Jamaica, VT at Westfest.

The West River runs 54-miles across VT from Mount Holly in the Green Mountains to Brattleboro where it joins the Connecticut River. While blocked by two large flood control dams – Ball Mountain and Townshend – there are still two sections of the West that are used for whitewater paddling during dam releases in the spring and fall – the upper West (class III) from Ball Mountain Dam to the Jamaica State Park, and the lower West (class II) from the Jamaica State Park to Route 100.

A typical section of the West River

Westfest, held during the fall release, is the place to see and be seen for whitewater paddlers in the northeast. Just about everyone who paddles whitewater is there. The staff from the Jamaica State Park runs a shuttle on the upper section that allows paddlers to easily do 3 or 4 runs a day – a big draw for many people.

Since I started paddling on the West, I always paddled it with folks from RICKA. Over the years the group has grown, and then shrank. For the past couple of years it has been just Paul and I, but the great thing about Westfest is that there are always people that you know to paddle with.  

Dave running Initiation

We got an early start and arrived at the Jamaica State Park at around 8:30. We parked, unloaded our gear, changed up, and were on the shuttle for our first run at around 9:00. As we got on the water at the footbridge at Cobb Brook, we joined Paul G. for our first run. With the recent rains, the level was a little higher than usual – between 1,800 and 1,900 on the Jamaica, VT gage. At this level, the rocks were buried and there were lots of long wave trains.  

The most difficult rapid on this section of the river is the Dumplings. The typical route is a “S” turn starting just left of some large rocks in the middle of the river, then right though some large standing waves. The turns were a little trickier and the waves were a little bigger, but we made it though fine. From there it is an easy run back to the Jamaica State Park for another ride on the shuttle.  

Paul running Initiation

We ended up doing four runs on the day. On the last run Paul and Dave D carried their boats up to the Ball Mountain Dam to run the most difficult rapid on the river – Initiation. Initiation is a half-mile rapid with continuous 3-foot waves, big rocks and nasty pour-overs. A misstate here usually leads to a long swim, so I decided to skip this rapid and take some pictures instead.  

From my perch on a rock about halfway down the rapid, I saw Dave and Paul catch an eddy above a large pour-over upstream. From there they pealed-out, ferried around the pour-over, and bobbed down the waves though the rest of the rapid – nicely done. We ran the rest of the river and were on our way home around 4:00 after another great day on the water.  

Erik and Dave approaching the take-out

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River Description from American Whitewater

Connecticut River Camping - Canaan to Bloomfield - May 9-11, 2018

Put-in in Canaan with the
class III rapids upstream

I left my house early Wednesday morning and was driving north up Route I-495 in rush hour traffic. As I came to Route 3 the commuter traffic was headed south toward Boston, but I left the traffic behind and headed north into New Hampshire. It felt good!

After running the section of the upper Connecticut River from Bloomfield, VT (North Stratford, NH) to Lunenburg, VT (South Lancaster, NH) last fall, Bill and I wanted to run the section from Canaan, VT (West Stewarstown, NH) to Blooomfield, VT (North Stratford, NH). We had been planning the trip for months, and it had finally arrived. I met Bill at the Visitor Center in Hooksett for the rest of the drive to the river.  

Monadnock Mountain in VT

When we arrived at the take-out, Earl and Jonathan were already there, and Conrad arrived shortly after. With the crew complete, we consolidated our boats and gear for trip up to the put-in in Canaan. The river was at a great level – 6 feet, 4,000 cfs on the North Stratford gage.  

We unloaded our boats at the boat ramp below the Canaan-West Stewartstown Bridge. Above the bridge, we could see the class III rapids below the Canaan Dam. The river was running fast as we headed out and paddled downstream. This section of the river meanders though farms and fields as it circles Monadnock Mountain in Vermont. After passing the Colebrook Bridge we pulled into the Holbrook Point Campsite.

Campfire cooking

The picnic table and stairs were still chained to a tree when we arrived, so we were likely the first campers to use the site this year. We set up the camp, gathered firewood, and had a nice supper of Fried Fish and Maine Guide Potatoes cooked on the fire by Jonathan before we settling in around the campfire for the night.

On Thursday we were in no rush to get started since we had a relatively short paddle down to the Lyman Falls. Breakfast included Omelets, Home Fries, and Sausage with lots of coffee. After breakfast we started loading our boats. Unfortunately, I wasn’t paying attention and my fully loaded canoe drifted out into the river. Fortunately, Conrad had his drysuit and was able swim out and retrieve it before it hit the current and got swept downstream.  

Campsite at Lyman Falls State Park

The Connecticut River is not known for its wilderness feel, but this section seemed a little more remote with hemlocks lining the banks in several sections. Below the Columbia Covered Bridge there was two miles of intermittent quickwater and class I rips leading to the Lyman Falls - a washed out dam and our destination for the night.

Before running the dam, we checked out the campsites upstream on the NH side, but found them poorly maintained. I ran the dam on the left, and ferried over to the Vermont side to check out the campsites at the Lyman Falls State Park, which were much nicer. In fact, they were the nicest sites that I had seen so far on the river. Jonathan, Bill and Earl followed my lead, and Conrad ran the dam just right of center. 

Conrad surfing at Lyman Falls

We set up camp and had a long lazy afternoon. We were only the second group to use the site this year, so firewood was easy to find and soon we had a large pile to burn. After a little exploring around the campsite, we lit the fire and Jonathan cooked a great dinner of Curried Chicken. After that, there was nothing left to do but enjoy the fire.

It had cooled off significantly when we woke up on Friday morning. The rapids on Thursday had dumped enough water in my boat to contaminate the fuel in my Coleman stove, so all cooking would have to be on the fire. Good thing we brought Jonathan along. We got a fire started, the coffee perking, and breakfast cooking - bacon, pancakes and left-over curried chicken.

Luther's Troopers (or the Canaan Five)
Bill, Conrad, Earl, Jonathan and Erik

After breakfast, we cleared some logs and debris from the launch area (always leave the site better than you found it) before loading our boats. By now the river had dropped about a foot - 5 feet, 3,000 cfs on the North Stratford gage. Conrad and I did a little surfing below the dam before we all headed downstream.

Even at this level, there were some nice class I rips immediately below the Lyman Dam. We were surprised that these easy rapids continued for several miles down to Bloomfield. Unfortunately, Earl and I had to take out there, but Bill, Jonathan and Conrad continued down to the Maidstone Bridge.  

Connecticut River Camping - Canaan to Bloomfield from Erik Eckilson on Vimeo.

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North Stratford Gage

Connecticut River Paddlers Trail

Connecticut River Camping – Bloomfield to Lunenburg - October 6-9, 2017

Typical section of the Connecticut River

Bill arrived at my house at around noon for the drive up to the Connecticut River in Vermont. We had been planning this trip for months, but the weather didn’t look promising. Oh well…

The Connecticut River is the longest river in New England flowing south for approximately 400 miles from the Canadian border through four states before emptying into Long Island Sound. We would be paddling the section of the Connecticut River Paddlers Trail from Bloomfield, VT (North Stratford, NH) to Lunenburg, VT (South Lancaster, NH). From the put-in near the mouth of the Nulhegan River to the convergence with the Upper Ammonoosuc near Groveton, NH we would also be paddling a section of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail.

At the Old Man of the Mountain

As we drove through the Franconia Notch, we decided to take a break and check out the Old Man of the Mountain. I can remember stopping to see the “Old Man” as a kid. It was actually a series of five granite cliffs on Cannon Mountain that appeared as the profile of an old man’s face when viewed from the north. The rock formation was 1,200 feet up, and came crashing down on May 3, 2003. It’s still a pretty view.

We arrived in Lancaster, NH at around 5:00, and stopped at a local pub for dinner. On the way to the campsite, we stopped to check out the Wyoming Dam Portage in Guildhall, VT, and Tommy and Mena pulled up behind us. We followed them up Route 102 in VT to the Belnap Campsite where we would be spending the night

Belnap Campsite

Belnap Campsite is a small campsite at the convergence of the Connecticut River and the Nulhegan River. The Nulhegan River arises in Brighton, VT, and flows generally northeast across Vermont to its convergence with the Connecticut River in Bloomfield village. There is a whitewater run on the Nulhegan, but it probably above may skill level.

We parked at the Northern Forest Canoe Trail kiosk, and carried our gear to the site for the night. No campfire this night. We set up camp and chatted in the dark enjoying the stars until it was time for bed. 

Breakfast with Bill

I woke up early on Saturday, made a cup of coffee, and walked over to the bridge over the Nulhegan River to watch the sunrise.  The morning was cloudy so the sun was mostly obscured.  By 7:00, everyone was up and we were having our breakfast and making plans for the day. 

We would put in at Debanville Landing – a grassy landing across the street from the campsite (mile 348) - and shuttle down to the Mount Orne Covered Bridge (mile 307) in Lunenburg, VT - a trip of 41 miles. This section of the river generally follows Route 3 in NH and Routes 102 and 2 in VT.

A well loaded boat

By 9:30, we had run the shuttle and we were anxious to the trip underway. On this day we would paddle 13 miles to the Samuel Benton Campsite (mile 334). Once Bill and I got our gear to the put-in, we wondered if it would all fit in the boat. It did, but just barely.

The river was wide, but very shallow at the put-in. With our heavy load, Bill and I had to wade out quite ways to find water deep enough to float the boat, and we still put in a couple of good scratches in the hull.

Heading downstream

We headed out under mostly sunny skies, but clouds rolled in as the day progressed, and we got some scattered rain in the afternoon. With our heavy load, Bill and I had to be careful to avoid the many rocks and sandbars. The foliage was just about peak, but with the cloudy skies it wasn’t as bright as I would have liked. 

After 13 miles we arrived at the Samuel Benton Campsite (mile 334). The campsite is situated in a grove of trees on a sandy bluff at the edge of large hay field. The nice grassy site gave us plenty of room to spread out. We quickly settled into to a familar routine – set up camp, gather firewood, cook supper, and gather around the campfire for the night. The sun setting over the mountains was spectacular.

Breakfast at the Samuel Benton Campsite

We got up on Sunday morning to fog and mist. The morning routine was similar to the evening – make coffee, get a small fire going, eat breakfast, break camp and head out. A light rain at about 7:30 got us moving quickly, and we were on the river by 8:30 heading downstream. 

The river continued to be shallow, but was not a boney as the previous day. Throughout the morning showers passed, so it was rain gear on, and rain gear off. As we passed the confluence of the Upper Ammonoosuc River, the river opened up a bit. 

Wyoming Dam Portage

The Upper Ammonoosuc River flows north and then west across New Hampshire to empty into the Connecticut River near Groveton. I had run a portion of the Upper Ammonoosuc as part of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail several years ago. There are also a couple of whitewater runs on the Upper Ammo (class IV/II and class II) that I would like to try.

After 11 miles, we approached the Maidstone Bridge and the Wyoming Dam Portage. The old Wyoming Dam is a hazard due to rebar jutting into the river. Even without rebar, it looked too boney to run at this level anyway. Fortunately the rain let up as we hiked the portage trail. After a quick lunch we continued downstream to the South Guildhall Campsite. 

Rain gear on

As we headed out, the wind picked up and rain came down in sheets. It looked like it would be long 5-mile slog down to the campsite. Fortunately, the rain and wind passed as quickly as it started, and we had clear blue skies as we pulled into the South Guildhall Campsite (Mile 317). 

The South Guildhall Campsite is a wooded site up a steep bank with great views of the White Mountains to the south. We lugged our gear up the stairs and followed our usual routine - set up camp, gather firewood, cook supper, and then gather around the campfire for the night. 

The crew - Erik, Bill, Tommy and Mena

I turned in at around 9:00, and woke up the next morning at around 5:30 to Tommy taking down his tent. The sky was cloudy, and it was pretty clear that it was going to be a rainy day, so he wanted to keep his tent dry.  I figured I would have time for a cup of coffee, and I was right, but just barely.  I had to race to get my gear packed before the skies opened up. We loaded the boats, took a picture of the group, and were on the river by 7:30.

Monday would be a short day (10 miles) down to the take-out at the Mount Orne Covered Bridge (mile 307). The river was wider and deeper in this section. It twists and turns through corn fields that seem to go on forever.  The wind was calm, but the rain got heavier as the morning went on.  We passed the confluence of the Israel River, which runs general northwest across New Hampshire before emptying in to the Connecticut River in Lancaster. There is also a whitewater run on the Israel that I would like to try. 

Mount Orne Covered Bridge

We arrived at the Mount Orne Covered Bridge at around noon. We were wet and tired, but excited about a great trip. We retrieved our cars, packed up our gear and said goodbyes before the long drive home in the holiday traffic.

Camping on the Upper Connecticut from Erik Eckilson on Vimeo.

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Connecticut River Paddlers Trail

Northern Forest Canoe Trail