Pawcatuck River Overnight/Bastille Day Campout - July 12-13, 2025

The Mohawk is loaded up

Saturday started with a RICKA Flatwater training at Stump Pond, and ended with our annual Bastille Day Campout at the Burlingame Canoe Campsites on the on the Pawcatuck River. It was a good weekend.

Back in the old days, RICKA held an annual summer camping trip – the Bastille Day Campout. Bastille Day is a national holiday in France that celebrates the Storming of the Bastille on July 14, 1789. Why Bastille Day was chosen as a theme for a RICKA camping trip has been lost to history. The connection to summer is obvious, and maybe it was a simple as that.

Setting up camp

The event was originally held on Dutch Island. When the DEM prohibited camping on Dutch Island in 1991, it moved to the Burlingame Canoe Campsites on the Pawcatuck. It was celebrated with an assortment of French and French-Canadian delicacies – mostly wine and beer. A Molson toast around the fire was always the highlight of an evening filled with good food and good friends.

Reviving this RICKA tradition seemed like a worthy challenge, so for the past few years we have been organizing a summer overnight trip at the Burlingame Canoe Campsites. This year, we met at the Bradford Landing at 2:30 to load up our boats. The group included JD, Chuck, Danny, Dan, Bill, Tim, Reuben and me.

Steak Frites on the fire

The weather was beautiful as we headed out – party cloud and in the 80’s with a light wind. It would drop into the 60’s in the evening, but no rain. We arrived and found the field campsite empty, so we hauled our gear up and set up camp. We started the dinner fire, then cooled off taking turns on the rope swing as the fire burned down to coals for cooking.

Once again, the food was plentiful - salsa and chips, charcuterie and cheese, cedar-planked brie with crusty baguettes, Italian sausage with spicy zucchini, Steak Frites (steak and fries), watermelon, carrot cake. After dinner, we settled in around the campfire for a night of tall-tales and war-stories. I finally turned in at around 10:00.

Breakfast in the Big Daddy skillet

Before I knew it, morning light was streaming through my tent. I got up around 6:00, started the fire and got the coffee perking. Dan was up shortly after, so we started on breakfast. I fired up my Dutch oven to make a batch of cinnamon rolls, and Dan fired up his 20” Big Daddy skillet to cook everything else - bacon, sausage, home fries and eggs. No one ever goes hungry on these trips.

After breakfast we packed for the trip back to Bradford. I was on the road by 10:00, and I was home by 11:00. We will definitely put the Bastille Day Campout on the RICKA calendar again next year.

The annual Molson toast

Links:

My Pictures

Video from the Rope Swing

Introduction to Canoe/Kayak Camping - July 9, 2025

Chuck and I did a virtual canoe/kayak camping training for RICKA last night. Not a bad turn out – great questions and discussion. Here is the recording.

If you go to the description on the Vimeo page, you will see a list of the topics that we covered with the time stamp. Click the time stamp and it will take you to that section of the video.

Baskehegan Stream - May 17-21, 2025

The crew - loaded up and ready to go

The forecast called for rain on Saturday, and Sunday, and Monday and Tuesday, but it didn’t matter. This trip on the Baskehegan had been on the calendar since March, so we weren’t going to miss it no matter what the weather.

Baskehegan Stream arises in Carroll, ME and flows generally north for around 40-miles to Bancroft where it joins the Mattawamkeag River. We would be paddling the section through Baskehegan Lake from White Farm Road in Topsfield to the dam in Danforth. Originally, the plan was to paddle down to the bridge in Bancroft, but more on that later.

Put in on White Farm Road

We met at Jonathan’s in Wiscasset Friday night so we could get an early start Saturday morning. There was a steady drizzle on Saturday as we loaded the boats and gear and headed out. It was about a 3-hour drive from Jonathan’s house to the river, about 6.5-hours from my house in Woonsocket.

White Farm Road is a dirt logging road owned by a local logging company. The put in is just below a bridge and a pretty waterfall. After unloading our boats and gear we ran the shuttle up to Bancroft. We finally got on the water at around 4:00.

Wading through the shallows

This first section of the river tends to be shallow. With recent rains, we hoped the river would be up, but it wasn’t. We frequently ran aground and had to get out to wade our heavily loaded boats. Fortunately, it was a short trip down to the first campsite – Upper Baskahegan Campsite. Day 1 paddling – about 2 miles.

We unloaded our gear and quickly got the tarp and tents set up. We gathered wood as Jonathan prepared dinner – his classic fried fish with Maine guide potatoes. After dinner we sat around the fire until 9:45 when we called it a night.

Beaver lodge in the Big Bog

There is something to be said for staying warm and dry inside your tent as the rain is falling outside. I woke up at 6:00, but with the rain I didn’t crawl out of my tent until around 7:30 when I heard Conrad making coffee. The rain was expected to fall until noon, so we had a soggy breakfast and packed up a soggy camp.

We got on the water around 11:00 for our trip through Big Bog – the large wetland that feeds Baskehegan Lake. There were beaver lodges everywhere, but surprisingly few birds or other wildlife. The river twisted and turned through a marsh with very little solid ground. We took a break for lunch in our boats.

Crossing to Long Island

We arrived at Baskehegan Lake and found it flat and calm. Fog was rolling in and out as made the crossing to the Long Island Campsite. Day 2 paddling – about 9-miles.

The rain and fog continued as we set up camp. By 6:00, tents and tarps were up, and wood was gathered. Time for cocktails. Dinner was Ellen’s chili, and desert was Jules’ brownies. It was another early night. I was in the tent around 9:30.

Tents with extra tarps for the rain

I woke up at 2:30 to a torrential downpour. Everything was dry in my tent, so I fell back asleep and woke up around 5:00 to rain and gusting winds. The plan was to get an early start, but it didn’t look like that was going to happen, so I went back to sleep. I woke up again at 7:00 to another torrential downpour.

I finally crawled out of my tent around 7:30 when I heard Jonathan lighting the fire and making coffee. We cooked breakfast and started taking down camp in the rain. We finally got on the water at around 11:00. This was to be our biggest paddling day – around 12-miles down to the Narrows Campsite on Crooked Brook Flowage. We would be paddling into 10-mph headwinds with gusts around 25-mph.

Crossing to Round Island

We launched and headed out on the crossing to Round Island – about 1/2-mile. The going was slow, and the wind was kicking up small waves, but everyone made it across fine. From there, we did another 1/2-mile crossing from Round Island to North Point. Once again, it was a slow crossing, but everyone made it across fine. Finally, we had to paddle about a mile along the shore to the outlet for Baskehegan Stream.

We ran the broken dam as we left the lake and reentered the river. We continued to fight a strong headwind as the river twisted and turned thorough another large wetland. We were cold and tired when we pulled into the Anvil Meadows Campsite for a break at around 3:00. Rather than paddling on, we decided to call it a day. Day 3 paddling – about 8 miles, about 4 miles short of our goal.

Tarp is up at Anvil Meadows

With the decision made to stay, we got to work setting up camp and gathering wood. I was the chef for the evening and made lasagna in the Dutch oven. Everyone was tired, and we were in the tents even earlier – a little after 9:00.

Tuesday was the first morning that the rain didn’t keep me in the tent. I got up around 6:00, started the fire and the coffee, and started taking down my tent. With the truncated day on Monday, we knew that we needed to get an early start today. We had a quick breakfast, broke down camp and loaded the boats for the final leg of our trip. We are on the water at around 8:30.

Running the small rapids

This section of the river was a lot of fun with short sections of flatwater separated by quickwater and easy rapids. We took turns picking lines through the rapids. Eventually, we reached Crooked Brook Flowage, which is the dead water above the Danforth Dam. We passed the Narrows camp site – our intended campsite from the day before.

We crossed the flowage, and paddled along the shore down to the Danforth Dam into a 15-mph headwind with gusts around 30-mph. It was a real slog. We pulled into the boat ramp at around noon. Day 3 paddling – around 7-miles.

Take out at Danforth Dam

It was clear that we didn’t have time to do the portage and 7-mile trip down to Bancroft, so we needed to get a ride back to our cars. Fortunately, there was a guy sitting in his truck in the parking lot. We struck up a conversation and he offered to give Jonathan a ride - problem solved.

This trip was definitely a case of Type 2 Fun. It was cold, cloudy, windy and rainy. We spent most of our time cold and wet. We were paddling heavily-loaded boats through shallow water and against strong headwinds. But in the end, we pulled together and made it work. We only paddled 26-miles total, but the camping and comradery was still great.

 

Links:
My Pictures
My Video

Introduction to Canoe Camping – January 18, 2025

I was glad to be one of the presenters at the NH/AMC’s Introduction to Canoe Camping. The session was focused on paddlers interested in moving into wilderness tripping. Presentations included Trip Planning and Organization (Jonathan), Necessary Skills (Bob), Boats and Paddling Gear (me), Camping Gear (Deb), and Food and Cooking. In addition, several presenters did presentations on their favorite trips (I did the Connecticut River), and there was a Show and Tell table where folks could see and ask questions about gear. It was a great session, and very well received.

Introducing my favorite trip video on the Connecticut River

Links:

My Pictures

Year-End Camping at Burlingame - December 28-29, 2024

Heading up from Bradford

After last year’s successful year-end camping trip, we decided to do again this year. We had 9 for an overnight at the Burlingame Canoe Campsites – me, Bob, Chuck, Jose, Aaron, Matt, Jim, Burr and Joe. Usually in the winter you are dealing with snow and ice, but on this trip we had rain and mud - a steady drizzle with temperatures in the 40’s during the day and 30’s at night. 

I met the group at the Bradford Landing at 11:30 for the 3-mile trip up to the Burlingame Canoe Campsites. Once there, we decided to camp in the field again this year. We hauled our gear up from the river and set up camp. The tents went up first, then the tarps, then the kitchen. We got the fire going and enjoyed Jose’s chili for lunch. After lunch we sat around the fire until supper, which was Swedish meatballs with chocolate cake for dessert. We turned in for the night around 10:00 as the rain was picking up.

Camp is set up

I stayed warm and dry in my tent, and before I knew it I heard someone moving around outside. It was Bob getting the morning fire started. I reluctantly climbed out of my sleeping bag to join him. After warming up by the fire, I fired up my Dutch oven to make a batch of my grandmother’s cinnamon rolls. Bob cooked bacon, sausage and home fries in his Big Daddy Skillet, and I cooked Jonathan’s eggs-in-a-hole.

After breakfast we packed up camp for the trip back to Bradford Landing. Great trip and a nice way to end the year.

The crew at the morning fire

Links:

My Pictures

Jim's Video

The Bastille Day Campout - June 28-29, 2024

Home for the night

I was busy with work this spring, so I missed the spring camping trip with my usual camping buddies. Bill and I did try to get some interest going for a late spring trip on the Connecticut River, but everyone was busy. Rather than skipping camping completely, we decided on an old favorite – an overnight at the Burlingame Canoe Campsites on the Pawcatuck River.

Back in the old days, RICKA held an annual summer camping trip – the Bastille Day Campout. Bastille Day is a national holiday in France that celebrates the Storming of the Bastille on July 14, 1789. Why Bastille Day was chosen as a theme for a RICKA camping trip has been lost to history. The connection to summer is obvious, and maybe it was a simple as that. 

Campfire Paella for dinner

The event was originally held on Dutch Island. When the DEM prohibited camping on Dutch Island in 1991, it moved to the Burlingame Canoe Campsites on the Pawcatuck. It was celebrated with an assortment of French and French-Canadian delicacies – mostly wine and beer. A Molson toast around the fire was always the highlight of an evening filled with good food and good friends.

Reviving this RICKA tradition seemed like a worthy challenge, so Bill and I posted a trip on the flatwater message board, and we ended up with a group of six. We met at the Bradford Landing at 2:00 to load up our boats and paddle up to the campsites. There was one small complication - a large group celebrating a bachelor party had already set up camp at the Burlingame sites. Rather than intrude or put up with the noise, we decided to check out the bootleg sites along the river.  

The Molson toast around the fire

Danny and Bill headed out first, and checked out a site not far from the put-in. It was nice, but a little closed in, so we decided to check out some of the sites further upstream. Aaron suggested a site on river right just past the Burlingame sites. It had plenty of room for boats, a nice fire pit for cooking, and a great view of the river - the decision was made.

We hauled our gear up from the river and set up camp. Once camp was up, Aaron went out for a paddle, and the rest of us took a break to enjoy a few cocktails. Before long it was time to light the fire and cook dinner - campfire paella. After dinner, Dan, Aaron and I took a moonlight paddle up to the Burdickville Dam. Then we settled in around the campfire for the night. After many tall-tales and war-stories we finally turned in at around 10:00. 

Dan cooks breakfast

Before I knew it, morning light was streaming through my tent. I got up around 6:00, started the fire and got the coffee perking. Dan was up shortly after, so we started on breakfast. I fired up my Dutch oven to make a batch of cinnamon rolls, and Dan fired up his 20” Big Daddy skillet to cook everything else - bacon, home fries and eggs. No one ever goes hungry on these trips.

After breakfast we packed up camp for the trip back to Bradford. The sky was cloudy, and we even got a few drops of rain. Once there, we packed up the cars and said our goodbyes after another great tip. We will definitely have to put the Bastille Day Campout on the RICKA calendar next year.

Packed up and ready to go

Links:

My Pictures

Aaron's Video on YouTube

Burlingame Canoe Campsites from Rhode Island Blueways
Bradford Landing from Rhode Island Blueways

End-of-Year Camping at the Burlingame Canoe Campsites - December 30-31, 2023

Heading out from Bradford Landing

We’ve been having a relatively warm winter, so I was hoping to get one more camping trip in before the end of the year. Without too much arm-twisting we got a group of 5 together for an overnight trip at the Burlingame Canoe Campsites – me, Bob, Dan, John and Chuck.

The weather forecast was mixed with slight chance showers Saturday afternoon, day-time temperatures in the 40’s, and night-time temperatures dropping into the 20’s. I met the group at the Bradford Landing at 11:30 for the 3-mile trip up to Burlingame. With several inches of rain over the past two-weeks, the river was high and it was a bit of a slog paddling up to the campsites.

Camp set up in the field

We are fortunate to have a several very nice campsites on the Pawcatuck River. There is Stoney Point on Worden Pond, the Carolina Canoe Campsite just upstream from the Richmond Landing, the "bootleg" site at the confluence of the Wood River downstream from Alton Landing, and of course, the Burlingame Canoe Campsites upstream from Bradford Landing in the Burlingame Management Area.

The Burlingame Wildlife Management Area extends north from Watchaug Pond in the Burlingame State Park to include a large woodland along the Pawcatuck River. The land is managed for both wildlife protection and recreation with hunting, trails for hikers and mountain bikers, and the Burlingame Canoe Campsites. These campsites are only accessible from the river or by hiking in from the parking lot on Buckeye Brook Road or from the North South Trailhead on Burdickville Road. 

Baking biscuits in Bob's Camper Kitchen

At the Burlingame Canoe Campsites there is an open field and five wooded sites. We decided to camp in the field. We hauled our gear up from the river and set up camp. The tents went up first, then the rain fly, then the kitchen. We got a short rain shower after everything was set up, but we stayed dry under the tarp while we enjoyed John’s chili for lunch

After lunch we took a walk to check out the other campsites before lighting the campfire. Dan cooked nachos in his reflector oven for an afternoon snack, quesedillas in his Big Daddy Skillet as an appetizer, and Tuscan White Bean Stew with grilled garlic bread for dinner. Desert was Strawberry Shortcake with Bob’s homemade Bakewell Cream biscuits baked in his Camper’s Cook All Camper Kitchen baking pan.

Dan cooking breakfast

The sky eventually cleared, and we got a great view of the night stars as we sat around the fire. After many tall-tales and war-stories we finally turned in for the night at around 10:00. I was snug and warm with my father’s winter camping gear -  a Eureka Expedition tent and Sumberjack Quallofil sleeping bag. Compared to today’s gear, both are big and bulky, but they still work great – no complaints from me.

Before I knew it I heard someone moving around outside. It was Dan getting the morning fire started. It was 6:30 and still dark, but I reluctantly climbed out of my sleeping bag to join him. After warming up by the fire, I got the coffee perking and fired up my Dutch oven to make a batch of my grandmother’s cinnamon rolls. Dan cooked bacon and home fries in his 20” Big Daddy Skillet on the fire, and I cooked omelets on the stove. John said this trip was all about the food, and he was right - we didn't go hungry.

Exploring the marsh along Poquiant Brook

After breakfast we packed up camp for the trip back to Bradford Landing. Dan had his drysuit on, so he did a New Year's Polar Plunge off the rope swing before we left. With the high water, we were able to take a detour to explore the marshland along Poquiant Brook, which flows from Watchaug Pond in the Burlingame State Park to the Pawcatuck River. Great trip and a nice way to end the year. 

Year-end Canoe Camp, Pawcatuck River, RI

Link:

My Pictures

John's Video

Winter Camping

We are planning to do an overnight camping trip on New Year’s weekend, so it’s time to think about cold weather camping. At this point, we are not expecting snow, possibly rain and relatively warm temperatures (days in the 40’s, and night in the 30’s), but there are still some things to consider when camping in cold weather.

Tent - a three-season tent will probably work fine for this trip, but a four-season tent is even better. A four-season tent is designed to withstand heavy snow and wind. The tent fabric is heavier, which allows it to retain heat better. I'll be using my father's Eureka! Expedition. You can't find this tent today, but it was originally designed as a mountaineering tent. Here are a couple of advertisements from the late 1980's. 

Sleeping Bag – to ensure comfort on cold nights, it’s a good idea to use a bag that's rated at least 10° colder than the temperature you will be out in. I have my father's Sumberjack Quallofil winter bag with draft tubes at the zippers, and drawstrings at the shoulders and on the hood to help keep the heat in the bag. I can't tell from the bag itself, but it looks like what they used to sell as the Boundry 0.

Sleeping Pads - in cold weather its best to use two sleeping pads to keep from losing heat to the cold ground - a closed-cell foam pad on the tent floor, and an inflatable pad on top of that. Pads designed for winter use usually have an R-value of about 4.0 or higher. I'll use my father's ¼” closed-cell foam pad and a Klymit Static V insulated pad with an R-value of 4.4. I also have my father's original Therm-a-Rest - they don't make them like that anymore.

Clothes – as always, dress in layers to match the conditions – a base layer next to the skin, then insulating layers to provide warmth, and finally outer layers to protect against rain and wind. Look for synthetic fabrics or wool that dry quickly and wick perspiration away from your body. Don’t forget a hat, gloves and appropriate footwear for the conditions. Be sure to adjust your layering before you over-heat or get cold, and bring warm, dry cloths to sleep in.

Stoves - liquid-fuel stoves like the Whisperlite work fine in below-freezing temperatures. Canister stoves like my Jetboil need to be kept above freezing to produce vapors and work properly. When in doubt, cook on the fire.

Food – your body generates heat as it digests food, so if you’re feeling cold try eating some food. (Moving around will also help.) Before you go to bed, have a snack to keep your metabolism going and keep a candy bar nearby if you get cold in the middle of the night. I don't think we will need to worry about having enough food with this group.

Water - don't forget to stay hydrated. I usually bring jugged water, but in the winter you may need to pump or melt water. 

I'm lucky that my father was a winter hiker, so I have a lot of his old gear. For real winter camping you need to get out in the snow, but we'll try that another time.

Planning a Canoe Camping Trip

What’s not to like about canoe camping. You spend the day paddling in nature’s beauty, and then spend the night relaxing around the campfire. I did my first canoe camping trip 2012, and I’ve been hooked ever since. I soon learned, though, that there is more to canoe camping than meets the eye. Planning is the key to a safe and fun trip.

Don't forget to plan for the shuttle

What trip will you do?

Canoe camping trips can run the gamut from easy overnights to month-long excursions, and anything in-between. Choose a trip that fits the group’s skills and schedule. Water levels and weather will determine the best time to run the trip, and the potential hazards you might face. 

For beginners it is a good idea to start off with shorter, easy trips before moving on to longer, more ambitious ones. You will also need to arrange the shuttle in and out, which can add a day or two to each end of the trip.

Crew of five at the end of a trip

Who will you go with?

Your friends of course! If they are not your friends at the start, they will be your friends when you finish. You can solo if you wish, but a group of four to six is my preference. More than that and it can get crowed in camp. Less than that and you may not have enough support if things go wrong. Choose a group with appropriate skills and a willingness to share camp chores.

When deciding on the group, you need to make sure that everyone agrees on the focus of the trip. Some people prefer an easy day of paddling with time in camp for nice meals and adult beverages. Others want to do 40-mile days and have oatmeal for breakfast and dinner (skipping lunch). Make sure the group agrees on where the trip falls in this range.

Chili for dinner

What food will you bring?

The trip you do will definitely influence the food that you bring. On trips where portages are few and weight is not an issue, you can bring coolers filled with fresh food. You will also need cooking gear, which takes up additional space. On trips with portages where every ounce counts, the food is more likely to be dehydrated or freeze dried and cooked on a backpacking stove.

Water jugs of different sizes

Should I bring or collect water?

You will also need a supply of fresh water. Between drinking and cooking, most people will need around 2 liters a day. It is always best to carry in fresh water. You can use a hard jug or water bag. During the trip, it is preferable to resupply from a tap if possible. If you are going to be collecting water from natural sources you will need to boil, chemically treat (Aquatabs) or filter the water before using.

Layering for the conditions

What about clothes?

Canoe camping is a water sport, so you should plan to get wet. Cotton cloths should be avoided. I tend to bring synthetic fabrics rather than more traditional wool. Wools socks are the exception – I never forget the wool socks. Layering allows you to be comfortable regardless of the conditions. Outer layers protect from wind and rain. Inner layers provide insulation. Don’t forget a hat and gloves if gets cold, shoes for camp, and your toiletries.

A roomy campsite

Campsites

Unless you are traveling in the remote wilderness, you will probably be camping in established campsites. The perfect campsite is elevated above the river on a flat section of land that has nice views of the surrounding landscape. If you are lucky, your campsite will have a picnic table with a ridgepole for your tarp, a fireplace, and maybe even an outhouse or thunderbox. Find a level spot for your tent that is away from dead trees and sparks from the fire.

Rain tarp is up - just in case

Tarps

If rain is in the forecast, the first thing that goes up is the tarp. Tarps are usually rigged for protection from rain, but can also be used to protect from sun or wind. A good tarp must be large enough to cover the group and have lots of attachment points. Poles are nice, but tall sticks and paddles work just as well. You’ll need a collection of stakes and guy lines to rig the fly in different configurations.

Home for the night

Tents

There is nothing like waking up in the morning to birds singing and the sun streaming into your tent. Tents have come a long way from the heavy canvas tents of old. The nice thing about canoe camping is that there is room for a bit of extravagance. You don’t need to jam yourself into a tiny one-person backpacking tent, unless you want to. Choose a tent with plenty of headroom, a full fly and good ventilation. 

A room with a view

Sleeping Bags and Pads

Waking up all snug and warm in your sleeping bag can make it tough to think about climbing out of the tent. The sleeping bag you use will depend on the season and the weather. To ensure comfort on cold nights, it’s a good idea to use a bag that's rated at least 10° colder than the temperature you will be out in. The sleeping bag's fill can be down or synthetic. Down bags pack small, but can be difficult to dry if they get wet. Synthetic bags are bulkier, but are easier to dry. 

A good sleeping pad can make sleeping on the ground not just bearable, but quite comfortable. Sleeping pads have two functions - comfort and insulation. The simplest is a thin closed cell foam pad. Inflatable hiking pads pack small and have come a long way in terms of comfort and durability. Combination pads that inflate but also contain foam like the original Therm-A-Rest are also available. Pads designed for colder weather usually have an R-value of 4.0 or higher. 

Camp kitchen for a large group

Camp Kitchen

Your kitchen kit should include pots, pans and utensils. A good frying pan and large pot are essential, and you will also need a knife, spatula, serving spoon and tongs. Long handles make it easy to work around the fire, and fireproof gloves are a nice addition. Don’t forget a scrubber and biodegradable soap for the dishes, trash bags to pack out garbage. 

You will also need to decide if you will cook on the fire or the stove, or both. If you cook on the fire you will need a grill or fire grate, and your pots and pans will get covered in black soot – a badge of honor for many camp cooks. A plastic bag will keep the grime from your pots and pans off your other gear.

Sitting around the evening fire

Campfire

When a campfire cook has passed through a campsite you can always tell by the fire pit. It will be clear of ash and debris allowing ample room for wood under the grill. If it is round, it will be large with multiple cooking spots depending on the type of cooking to be done and the heat needed. Or it will be “U” shaped and just wide enough to support the grill.

When collecting wood you will need a mixture of sizes from small to large - tinder to light the fire, kindling to establish the fire and fuel to feed the fire. Firewood should be collected selectively to leave the site and scenery as undisturbed as possible. Softwoods are usually easier to find and burn the fastest. Hardwoods produce a cleaner, longer lasting fire and better coals. Make sure your matches are stored in a waterproof container. 

The morning coffee

For cooking, keep the fire contained under the pots and pans. It is often easier to cook with small sticks rather than large logs. The most important part of the cooking fire is the height of the grill – too low and it will be tough to get wood underneath, too high and it will take a lot of wood. A grill grate at 8” to 10” seems to work best. Shift the pans around to get the heat that you need and prevent hot spots.

You should always leave the campsite better than you found it, and that is especially true of the fire pit. Make sure everything that you place in the fire gets burned completely. Never burn foil, plastic, styrofoam, bottles or cans. Don’t leave anything behind, except perhaps a pile of dry wood for the next campers.

Backpacking stove with a cozy

Stoves

When I started canoe camping everything was cooked on the stove. Over time I have gravitated more to cooking on the fire, but that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t bring a stove along. When firewood is not available, in bad weather, or if you run out of daylight a stove may be needed. Stoves range from two-burner base camp models like the classic Coleman stove, to small backpacking stoves. Having a wind shield or cozy will significantly increase the stove's efficiency.

Splitting wood - be careful

Axe/Hatchet or Saw

An axe or hatchet is good to have along to split wood - especially when conditions are soggy. Remember though that splitting wood is one of the most dangerous things that you can do in camp. A saw is a must for gathering and cutting firewood. I usually bring two – a straight, folding saw for gathering wood, and a folding bow saw for cutting it into lengths.

Dinner by lantern light

Lanterns and Flashlights

One of my memories of camping as a kid was lighting my father’s white gas Coleman lantern with silk mantles. It was very bright and made a unique sound when lit. Today, there are lots of small battery powered lanterns that produce the same light and are easier to carry. A headlamp is essential for working in the dark, and a flashlight is good to bring along as a backup.

Drybags ready to be loaded

Dry Bags and Barrels

Comfortable camping is all about keeping your gear dry, and drybags and barrels allow you to do that. Vinyl drybags are the most durable, but nylon coated drybags are lighter and easier to compress to fit in small spaces. I use both. Drybags use a roll-down top and heavy clips to create a water tight seal. Some come with pack straps for easy portaging.

I double bag critical items that need to stay dry (sleeping bag, camp clothes) in smaller nylon drybags before packing in the larger vinyl drybag. I also use mesh bags to organize things that I tend to use together. For me, two large dry bags (one for my tent, clothes and sleeping gear, and one for everything else) and a small day bag seem to work right. I know – I don’t pack light. I need to work on that.

Barrels provide a waterproof and animal proof alternative to drybags. They are especially good for storing food, and have the added benefit of serving as chairs and tables in camp.

On the portage trail

Portages

If portaging is part of the trip you will definitely need to pack light. I usually pack for a two carries – the first with my boat and lighter dry pack, the second with my heavier dry back, day bag and anything else. In some areas, a portage cart can be used on rock and root-free trails. On rivers, wading or lining may be an alternative to portaging, and you might be able to run easier rapids empty. 

Enjoying a safe trip

Staying Safe

Safety on a canoe camping trip is just like safety for any other paddling trip - except that you are paddling a loaded tripping canoe and may be days away from potential help. You will need to know the conditions (recognizing that conditions can change quickly), know your group and its skills, and plan accordingly. 

The best way to stay safe is to anticipate what can go wrong, and avoid it. The two most common issues that you will face are whitewater and wind. Whitewater rapids that can easily be run in an empty boat might be significantly more difficult in a loaded tripping canoe. The same is true for long crossings across wind swept lakes. Portaging rapids and sitting out windy days are often the best strategy. 

You should dress for the conditions and always wear your PFD. You should bring appropriate safety gear including a first aid kit, throw bag/tow line and pin kit. You will also need to bring appropriate navigation and communication equipment. In remote areas, a satellite communication device will keep you in touch and allow you to send and receive messages in case of an emergency.

Back to the Alligash - September 22 - 30, 2023

Loaded up and ready to go

Getting ready to go on a trip is always hectic, but this time it was particularly so with family stuff, work, and of course packing. When Bob arrived to pick me up on Friday afternoon I turned off my computer, picked up my bags and headed out. Hopefully I had everything.

This would be my second trip on the Allagash Wilderness Waterway with Jonathan and Conrad. For this trip we would be joined by Bob and Ellen. We would be running the river from Churchill Dam to Michaud Farm with a layover day that we used to explore Churchill Lake.

We made it to Fort Kent

The State of Maine established the Allagash Wilderness Waterway in 1966 to preserve this unique section of the North Maine Woods. It is a 92.5-mile state park along the Allagash River that begins at Telos Lake and ends in Allagash Village. It is also one of the original "Wild and Scenic" rivers. While surrounded by commercial woodlands, logging is prohibited within 1-mile of the river. It can be reached only by traveling for miles on dirt logging roads.

We arrived at Jonathan’s house in Wiscasset around 5:30 and enjoyed cocktails on the deck until Conrad and Ellen arrived at 7:00. Dinner was the traditional sausage and noodles. We turned in early to be rested-up for the big trip.

Norm loading the boats

We got up early on Saturday, loaded up the boats and gear, and headed off to Fort Kent. After a quick stop at D&D in Augusta, we settled in for the 3-hour drive to Patten, ME and lunch at Craig’s Claim Shack. Unfortunately, it was closed for the season – we missed it by a week. The back-up was Debbie’s Deli, which worked out fine. From there, it is another 2-hours to Fort Kent.

We arrived at Fort Kent and checked-in at Northern Door Motel for the night. We had some time before dinner so we took a walk around Fort Kent, which has a border crossing to Canada across the St John’s River. We also checked out the Fort Kent Blockhouse – built during the Aroostook War of 1838-1839. The day ended with dinner at Swamp Buck.

Crossing Churchill Lake

We were up early on Sunday to meet Norm at Pelletier’s Campground for the shuttle. We would be dropping off our cars at Michaud Farm (about 10-miles), and continuing down to Churchill Dam (about 70-miles). It's a 3-hour ride down dirt logging roads, but at least we were not driving our cars.

After arriving at Churchill Dam we checked in with the ranger, packed up the boats and headed off to our first campsite – The Jaws. Surprisingly, everything fit in the boats and Jonathan’s putt-putt engine made quick work of the crossing. The campsite was open and we got to work unloading the boats, setting up camp, and gathering firewood. Dinner was Jonatan’s Fried Fish and Maine Guide Potatoes. We sat around the fire until it was time for bed.

Checking the flow at Churchill Dam

Winds were predicted to gust to 20 mph on Monday, so we decided to take our layover day. With nowhere to go, I cooked breakfast in the Dutch Oven – Blueberry Bake with a side of bacon. Later in the morning, we took a walk down to the Churchill Dam to check out the release from the dam and the Churchill Depot History Center museum that is located nearby.

After hiking back, we had lunch and spent some time gathering firewood before taking a quick tour around Churchill Lake. Jonathan and Bob wanted to catch a fish, and Ellen wanted to see a moose, but neither were successful. We were back in time for cocktails and to cook dinner. It was my turn to cook and I made lasagna in the Dutch Oven with sausage on the side. I played a game of cribbage with Bob (I lost) and we sat around the fire and enjoyed the stars.

Home fries for breakfast at the Jaws

One thing you learn when you are camping is patience. I rolled out of my tent at around 6:00 on Tuesday to start the fire and the coffee. I sat in front of the fire and waited for the coffee to perk. Jonathan got up at around 6:15, and we sat in front of the fire and waited for the coffee to perk. Conrad got up at around 6:30, and we sat in front of the fire and waited for the coffee to perk. The coffee finally started perking at around 6:45 and we had our coffee at around 7:00 - it was worth the wait.

Jonathan was on for breakfast, and he cooked home fried potatoes from the left-over Maine Guide Potatoes and eggs-in-a-hole – a traditional breakfast for this trip. We packed up camp and headed back to the dam to meet the ranger at 10:00 for the shuttle around the Chase Rapids. For $10, the ranger with shuttle boats, gear and people down to Bissonette Bridge. Jonathan Bob and I would be running Chase Rapids. Conrad and Ellen took the shuttle.

Running Chase Rapid

Chase Rapids is about 2-miles of class I/II whitewater. Jonathan and I ran it tandem in his Explorer. Bob poled it in his Camper. The first rapid bounces down a 200-yard rock garden. The second is a rocky S-turn, and Jonathan and I got hung up on the rocks about half-way down. Bob ran it clean. From there, the river alternates between quickwater and class I rapids. It was a fun run, and we soon met up again with Conrad and Ellen at Bissonette Bridge for lunch.

After lunch, we loaded up the boats for the trip down the river, across Umsaskis and into Long Lake. Jonathan’s putt-putt motor made quick work of the crossings and we were soon at our campsite for the evening – Jalbert. We settled into our familiar routine – unload the boats, set up camp and gather fire wood. Dinner with Conrad’s smoked salmon with grilled vegies. We were all tired and were in bed by around 9:00, except Jonathan who always stays up later.

Frittata for breakfast at Jalbert

It was a foggy morning on Wednesday as I got up to light the fire and start the coffee. I was up for breakfast, so I made potato, onion, pepper and cheese frittata in the Dutch Oven. After breakfast we packed up the boats for the trip down to Round Pond. Jonathan’s putt-putt motor made quick work of the remaining section of Long Lake.

At the bottom of Long Lake is the Long Lake Dam. Due to metal spikes in old timbers it is recommended that you line on the left or portage on the right. Due to high water, there was really no place to land on the left, so we decided to portage. Its a short portage, and we made quick work of it in spite of all the gear.

Entering Round Pond

Just as we finished, an unnamed poler (name withheld to protect the innocent) approached the dam. After a long look, he also decided to portage. After emptying his boat and looking from above he changed his mind. He poled the shoot on the left in an empty boat and made it through fine. It was probably good that we didn’t see that before we lugged our boats.

We continued downstream and stopped at Cunliffe Island for lunch. The level was high (between 2,500 and 3,000 cfs.) and the river was mostly slow moving water. It was still a quick trip, and before we knew it we ran past the American Elm trees, under the Henderson Bridge and into Round Pond. Our campsite for the night was Inlet, and we unloaded the boats and set up camp. Jonathan went off to replenish our water supply at the spring while the firewood crew went to work collecting and cutting wood for the night. Dinner was Ellen’s Magic Chili. It was another early night.

Running Round Pond Rips

I woke up at 5:30 on Thursday to the sound of a Bard Owl somewhere near our camp – “who-cooks-for-you, who-cooks-for-you-all”. It reminded me of the time at an owl parked himself over Jim Cole’s tent at the Pawcatuck River Boot-leg site and hooted most of the night. He was a little grumpy the next morning.

I finally rolled out of the tent at around 6:00 to start the fire and the coffee. By the time Jonathan got up at 6:30 the coffee was ready – amazing the difference good wood will make. Breakfast was eggs-in-a-hole and sausage, and we were soon packing up our gear and heading out.

Rafted-up on the Musquacook Deadwater

We paddled the short distance down Round Pond to the Round Pond Rips, which were running at a great level. Running Chase Rapid was fun, but Round Pond Rips was the highlight of the trip. The water was high, the scenery was great, and the rips continued for a couple of miles – you don’t get that combination very often. Eventually we arrived at the Musquacook Deadwater. Even there the water was moving, but we still decided to fire up the putt-putt engine for the trip down to Five Fingers Brook. We stopped for lunch at Fiver Fingers South, and Jonathan tried his hand at fishing – no luck.

From there it was a quick run-down to our campsite for the night at Deadwater South. We were hoping for Deadwater North, but an unnamed poler beat us to it. We pulled into camp and went through our usual routine. Dinner was Bob’s chicken and dumplings with cheese cake for dessert. We enjoyed the fire one last time before tuning in for the night.

Chili for dinner at Inlet

On Friday we knew it would be a quick trip down to Michaud Farm, but we had no idea how quick. As usual I was up around 6:00 to start the fire and the coffee. Breakfast was eggs-in-a-whole with bacon and sausage – a treat for our last day. We were packed up and on the river by 9:40, which is a record for us.

The current was fast, and we quickly floated past Cunliffe Depot. Realizing that our trip was quickly ending, we rafted up and let the current take us downstream for the last mile. We still arrived at Michaud Farm at around 10:30. Everyone packed up, Jonathan signed us out at the ranger station, and we were quickly on our way.

The crew at Michaud Farm

Conrad and Ellen went off to buy wood for a gazebo project. Jonathan Bob and I checked out the Big Rapid on the St John, stopped to thank Norm at Pelletier’s and had lunch at Two River’s Lunch in Allagash Village. Then it was off to the Overlook Motel for a shower and a shave. We returned to Swamp Buck for one last dinner and agreed on a group name – Standing Deadwood since that is what we are always looking for.

Bob and I left early the next morning for the long drive home. After a quick stop at Debbie’s Deli for breakfast, we were on our way. The only moose that we saw on this trip were on the moose crossing signs on the ride home. It was still an amazing trip!


Standing Deadwood on the Alagash from Erik Eckilson on Vimeo.

Ellen put together this poem about our adventure.

The Ballad of the Allagash
by Ellen Jean Keiter

Way up in Maine, in the North Country
Went three good friends, Conrad and me.
With three canoes and food for a week,
The aim was to paddle the Allagash Creek.

Well, it’s not a creek, but a river wide—
With lakes and whitewater to be tried.
The water was a-runnin’ and the weather was fine
And we five folks had a mighty good time.

We paddled the river, loaded with gear,
But didn’t see a moose or even a deer.
The loons were vocal on big Round Pond,
Callin’ to their mates and singin’ their songs.

Great blue herons we did see,
And huge bald eagles—at least three!
Barred owls woke us in the middle of the night,
And a pointy-eared hare was a very strange sight.

We paddled each day and camped each night
In the many well-provided river campsites.
With lots of standing deadwood all around,
The guys sawed up all the wood they found.

Dinner on the fire and cocktails, too!
Hot breakfast in the morning with a beautiful view.
Blueberry bake and lasagna too—
Oh, what that Dutch oven can do!

Where the water was still and the flow was low,
Our leader pulled us through with a putt-putt-motor tow.
But best of all were the whitewater parts
That made us whoop! and cheered our hearts.

A wonderful time was had by all,

Even though we never heard the moose’s call.
A treasure of a trip it was for sure.
Wilderness is a mighty fine cure.

Links:

My Pictures

Allagash Wilderness Waterway from Maine.gov

Allagash Wilderness Waterway Brochure

Gage at Allagash Village

North Maine Woods
Allagash from American Whitewater
Pelletier's Campground and Shuttle