Planning another Allagash trip

I'm planning another Allagash trip with Jonathan in September - this time with Bill and Dan. As usual, we'll do five nights on the river with a spare/layover day to explore the lakes. Here’s the schedule:

• Sunday, September 7th - assemble at Jonathan’s in Wiscasset in time for dinner.
• Monday, September 8th – leave Wiscasset early for the 5-hour drive to Churchill Dam - camp at the Jaws.
• Tuesday, September 9th - spare day to explore the lakes – another night at the Jaws. I would love to get down to Eagle Lake to see the locomotives if the putt-putt is working - 20-mile round trip.
• Wednesday, September 10th – run Chase Rapids - camp at the Ledges on Umsaskis or Jalberts on Long Lake.
• Thursday, September 11th - Long Lake Dam (portage) - camp at Inlet or Outlet on Round Pond.
• Friday, September 12th - Round Pond to Five Finger Brook - camp at Five Finger Brook or Cunliffe Depot. I wouldn’t mind seeing the log haulers at Cunliffe Depot again.
• Saturday, September 13th – early start down to Michaud Farm to meet Norm L’Italien (Pelletier’s Campground) for the ride back to Churchill Dam. Drive back to Wiscasset for dinner, or the long drive home.

We'll paddle tandem in Jonathan's Explorers. We’ll bring coolers with real food for as long as possible. Lunches and drinks are BYO. Jonathan will bring cooking gear and G&T for the 6:30 sundown meeting. Everyone will bring their own chair, camping gear, coffee mug, and other refreshments. We'll have to figure out who’s doing what for meals, and the remaining group gear.

The last time we were there the river was between 2,500 and 3,000 cfs. Today it is at 451 cfs - about what it was when we were there in 2022. 

Hopefully they will get some rain.

Back to the Alligash - September 22 - 30, 2023

Loaded up and ready to go

Getting ready to go on a trip is always hectic, but this time it was particularly so with family stuff, work, and of course packing. When Bob arrived to pick me up on Friday afternoon I turned off my computer, picked up my bags and headed out. Hopefully I had everything.

This would be my second trip on the Allagash Wilderness Waterway with Jonathan and Conrad. For this trip we would be joined by Bob and Ellen. We would be running the river from Churchill Dam to Michaud Farm with a layover day that we used to explore Churchill Lake.

We made it to Fort Kent

The State of Maine established the Allagash Wilderness Waterway in 1966 to preserve this unique section of the North Maine Woods. It is a 92.5-mile state park along the Allagash River that begins at Telos Lake and ends in Allagash Village. It is also one of the original "Wild and Scenic" rivers. While surrounded by commercial woodlands, logging is prohibited within 1-mile of the river. It can be reached only by traveling for miles on dirt logging roads.

We arrived at Jonathan’s house in Wiscasset around 5:30 and enjoyed cocktails on the deck until Conrad and Ellen arrived at 7:00. Dinner was the traditional sausage and noodles. We turned in early to be rested-up for the big trip.

Norm loading the boats

We got up early on Saturday, loaded up the boats and gear, and headed off to Fort Kent. After a quick stop at D&D in Augusta, we settled in for the 3-hour drive to Patten, ME and lunch at Craig’s Claim Shack. Unfortunately, it was closed for the season – we missed it by a week. The back-up was Debbie’s Deli, which worked out fine. From there, it is another 2-hours to Fort Kent.

We arrived at Fort Kent and checked-in at Northern Door Motel for the night. We had some time before dinner so we took a walk around Fort Kent, which has a border crossing to Canada across the St John’s River. We also checked out the Fort Kent Blockhouse – built during the Aroostook War of 1838-1839. The day ended with dinner at Swamp Buck.

Crossing Churchill Lake

We were up early on Sunday to meet Norm at Pelletier’s Campground for the shuttle. We would be dropping off our cars at Michaud Farm (about 10-miles), and continuing down to Churchill Dam (about 70-miles). It's a 3-hour ride down dirt logging roads, but at least we were not driving our cars.

After arriving at Churchill Dam we checked in with the ranger, packed up the boats and headed off to our first campsite – The Jaws. Surprisingly, everything fit in the boats and Jonathan’s putt-putt engine made quick work of the crossing. The campsite was open and we got to work unloading the boats, setting up camp, and gathering firewood. Dinner was Jonatan’s Fried Fish and Maine Guide Potatoes. We sat around the fire until it was time for bed.

Checking the flow at Churchill Dam

Winds were predicted to gust to 20 mph on Monday, so we decided to take our layover day. With nowhere to go, I cooked breakfast in the Dutch Oven – Blueberry Bake with a side of bacon. Later in the morning, we took a walk down to the Churchill Dam to check out the release from the dam and the Churchill Depot History Center museum that is located nearby.

After hiking back, we had lunch and spent some time gathering firewood before taking a quick tour around Churchill Lake. Jonathan and Bob wanted to catch a fish, and Ellen wanted to see a moose, but neither were successful. We were back in time for cocktails and to cook dinner. It was my turn to cook and I made lasagna in the Dutch Oven with sausage on the side. I played a game of cribbage with Bob (I lost) and we sat around the fire and enjoyed the stars.

Home fries for breakfast at the Jaws

One thing you learn when you are camping is patience. I rolled out of my tent at around 6:00 on Tuesday to start the fire and the coffee. I sat in front of the fire and waited for the coffee to perk. Jonathan got up at around 6:15, and we sat in front of the fire and waited for the coffee to perk. Conrad got up at around 6:30, and we sat in front of the fire and waited for the coffee to perk. The coffee finally started perking at around 6:45 and we had our coffee at around 7:00 - it was worth the wait.

Jonathan was on for breakfast, and he cooked home fried potatoes from the left-over Maine Guide Potatoes and eggs-in-a-hole – a traditional breakfast for this trip. We packed up camp and headed back to the dam to meet the ranger at 10:00 for the shuttle around the Chase Rapids. For $10, the ranger with shuttle boats, gear and people down to Bissonette Bridge. Jonathan Bob and I would be running Chase Rapids. Conrad and Ellen took the shuttle.

Running Chase Rapid

Chase Rapids is about 2-miles of class I/II whitewater. Jonathan and I ran it tandem in his Explorer. Bob poled it in his Camper. The first rapid bounces down a 200-yard rock garden. The second is a rocky S-turn, and Jonathan and I got hung up on the rocks about half-way down. Bob ran it clean. From there, the river alternates between quickwater and class I rapids. It was a fun run, and we soon met up again with Conrad and Ellen at Bissonette Bridge for lunch.

After lunch, we loaded up the boats for the trip down the river, across Umsaskis and into Long Lake. Jonathan’s putt-putt motor made quick work of the crossings and we were soon at our campsite for the evening – Jalbert. We settled into our familiar routine – unload the boats, set up camp and gather fire wood. Dinner with Conrad’s smoked salmon with grilled vegies. We were all tired and were in bed by around 9:00, except Jonathan who always stays up later.

Frittata for breakfast at Jalbert

It was a foggy morning on Wednesday as I got up to light the fire and start the coffee. I was up for breakfast, so I made potato, onion, pepper and cheese frittata in the Dutch Oven. After breakfast we packed up the boats for the trip down to Round Pond. Jonathan’s putt-putt motor made quick work of the remaining section of Long Lake.

At the bottom of Long Lake is the Long Lake Dam. Due to metal spikes in old timbers it is recommended that you line on the left or portage on the right. Due to high water, there was really no place to land on the left, so we decided to portage. Its a short portage, and we made quick work of it in spite of all the gear.

Entering Round Pond

Just as we finished, an unnamed poler (name withheld to protect the innocent) approached the dam. After a long look, he also decided to portage. After emptying his boat and looking from above he changed his mind. He poled the shoot on the left in an empty boat and made it through fine. It was probably good that we didn’t see that before we lugged our boats.

We continued downstream and stopped at Cunliffe Island for lunch. The level was high (between 2,500 and 3,000 cfs.) and the river was mostly slow moving water. It was still a quick trip, and before we knew it we ran past the American Elm trees, under the Henderson Bridge and into Round Pond. Our campsite for the night was Inlet, and we unloaded the boats and set up camp. Jonathan went off to replenish our water supply at the spring while the firewood crew went to work collecting and cutting wood for the night. Dinner was Ellen’s Magic Chili. It was another early night.

Running Round Pond Rips

I woke up at 5:30 on Thursday to the sound of a Bard Owl somewhere near our camp – “who-cooks-for-you, who-cooks-for-you-all”. It reminded me of the time at an owl parked himself over Jim Cole’s tent at the Pawcatuck River Boot-leg site and hooted most of the night. He was a little grumpy the next morning.

I finally rolled out of the tent at around 6:00 to start the fire and the coffee. By the time Jonathan got up at 6:30 the coffee was ready – amazing the difference good wood will make. Breakfast was eggs-in-a-hole and sausage, and we were soon packing up our gear and heading out.

Rafted-up on the Musquacook Deadwater

We paddled the short distance down Round Pond to the Round Pond Rips, which were running at a great level. Running Chase Rapid was fun, but Round Pond Rips was the highlight of the trip. The water was high, the scenery was great, and the rips continued for a couple of miles – you don’t get that combination very often. Eventually we arrived at the Musquacook Deadwater. Even there the water was moving, but we still decided to fire up the putt-putt engine for the trip down to Five Fingers Brook. We stopped for lunch at Fiver Fingers South, and Jonathan tried his hand at fishing – no luck.

From there it was a quick run-down to our campsite for the night at Deadwater South. We were hoping for Deadwater North, but an unnamed poler beat us to it. We pulled into camp and went through our usual routine. Dinner was Bob’s chicken and dumplings with cheese cake for dessert. We enjoyed the fire one last time before tuning in for the night.

Chili for dinner at Inlet

On Friday we knew it would be a quick trip down to Michaud Farm, but we had no idea how quick. As usual I was up around 6:00 to start the fire and the coffee. Breakfast was eggs-in-a-whole with bacon and sausage – a treat for our last day. We were packed up and on the river by 9:40, which is a record for us.

The current was fast, and we quickly floated past Cunliffe Depot. Realizing that our trip was quickly ending, we rafted up and let the current take us downstream for the last mile. We still arrived at Michaud Farm at around 10:30. Everyone packed up, Jonathan signed us out at the ranger station, and we were quickly on our way.

The crew at Michaud Farm

Conrad and Ellen went off to buy wood for a gazebo project. Jonathan Bob and I checked out the Big Rapid on the St John, stopped to thank Norm at Pelletier’s and had lunch at Two River’s Lunch in Allagash Village. Then it was off to the Overlook Motel for a shower and a shave. We returned to Swamp Buck for one last dinner and agreed on a group name – Standing Deadwood since that is what we are always looking for.

Bob and I left early the next morning for the long drive home. After a quick stop at Debbie’s Deli for breakfast, we were on our way. The only moose that we saw on this trip were on the moose crossing signs on the ride home. It was still an amazing trip!


Standing Deadwood on the Alagash from Erik Eckilson on Vimeo.

Ellen put together this poem about our adventure.

The Ballad of the Allagash
by Ellen Jean Keiter

Way up in Maine, in the North Country
Went three good friends, Conrad and me.
With three canoes and food for a week,
The aim was to paddle the Allagash Creek.

Well, it’s not a creek, but a river wide—
With lakes and whitewater to be tried.
The water was a-runnin’ and the weather was fine
And we five folks had a mighty good time.

We paddled the river, loaded with gear,
But didn’t see a moose or even a deer.
The loons were vocal on big Round Pond,
Callin’ to their mates and singin’ their songs.

Great blue herons we did see,
And huge bald eagles—at least three!
Barred owls woke us in the middle of the night,
And a pointy-eared hare was a very strange sight.

We paddled each day and camped each night
In the many well-provided river campsites.
With lots of standing deadwood all around,
The guys sawed up all the wood they found.

Dinner on the fire and cocktails, too!
Hot breakfast in the morning with a beautiful view.
Blueberry bake and lasagna too—
Oh, what that Dutch oven can do!

Where the water was still and the flow was low,
Our leader pulled us through with a putt-putt-motor tow.
But best of all were the whitewater parts
That made us whoop! and cheered our hearts.

A wonderful time was had by all,

Even though we never heard the moose’s call.
A treasure of a trip it was for sure.
Wilderness is a mighty fine cure.

Links:

My Pictures

Allagash Wilderness Waterway from Maine.gov

Allagash Wilderness Waterway Brochure

Gage at Allagash Village

North Maine Woods
Allagash from American Whitewater
Pelletier's Campground and Shuttle

Another Allagash Adventure

Last year’s trip was so good, that we are going back to do it again. This will be the 30th run for Jonathan. I’ll never hit that total. Key points for this trip are:

• Five nights on the river with one spare/layover day to explore the lakes.
• Dinner on Friday 22nd when everybody gets to Wiscasset.
• Minimum amount of dirt road driving in our own vehicles - use Norm and his van to shuttle us from Michaud Farm to Churchill Dam.
• Dinner on Friday the 29th in Fort Kent.
• Drive back Saturday 30th - 8-hours from Fort Kent, ME to Woonsocket, RI. 

Here is the schedule

• Friday, Sept. 22nd – assemble in Wiscasset for dinner.
• Saturday, Sept 23rd - up early, drive to Fort Kent, stay at Northern Door, dinner at Swamp Buck.
• Sunday, Sept. 24th - cars to Michaud Farm, shuttled in by Norm to Churchill, camp at The Jaws.
• Monday, Sept. 25th - spare/layover day to explore the lakes (could be another day depending on weather).
• Tuesday, Sept. 26th - camp at Jalberts on Long Lake.
• Wednesday, Sept. 27th - camp at Inlet or Outlet on Round Pond.
• Thursday, Sept. 28th - camp at Five Finger Brook or Cunliffe Depot.
• Friday, Sept. 29th - paddle to cars at Michaud Farm, stay at Northern Door.
• Saturday, Sept. 30th - drive home after breakfast.

I am paddling tandem with Jonathan in his MRE. Group meals for breakfast and dinner. On our own for lunch. Jonathan is bringing the G&T's for cocktail hour.  

The Allagash is cranking along at ~ 8,000 cfs. Apparently at at anything above 5,000 cfs the the rangers encourage everyone to take out at Michaud Farm above Allagash Falls, which we are doing anyway. They release around 500 cfs at the Chase Rapids during the day even if they let it rip at higher levels at night.  

Day time temps in the 60's and 70's. Night time temps in the 40's. Lots of clouds and maybe a couple days of rain early in the week.  

Allagash for All - An Overview from Jonathan Ludlow

This overview was prepared by Jonathan for the Penobscot Paddle and Chowder Society. I hope to be there when Jonathan completes his 30th visit.

Last October I completed my 29th visit to the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. Yes, I like the place.

It occurs to me that while my fellow Chowderheads are probably aware of the Waterway they may not realize what a wonderful place it is.

My strong impression from advertised club trips and accounts in the truly estimable trip book is that club members focus is either on courageous white-water descents on Class 3+ Spring run offs or on heroic saltwater voyages of discovery.

While I know that the PPCS tribe indulges in other modes of messing about in boats, I want to use this opportunity to promote what I consider the third leg of canoe/kayak sport – down river tripping. I will do this by describing the wonders of the Allagash Waterway and offering some suggestions for key factors to be considered in planning and executing a trip.

First of All – What and Where

The Allagash is a 100-mile-long protected limited access wilderness waterway that includes headwater lakes and 98 miles of North flowing river. There are no public roads, permanent habitations, or retail stores. There is no cell service. The waterway is surrounded by North Maine Woods administered forests. Access is over logging roads. It is as close to a pure wilderness experience as you will get east of the Mississippi.

The longest potential trip of 100 miles from Allagash Lake to Allagash Village involves only one significant portage. The waterway is dressed with 81 rustic camp sites equipped with a fireplace, picnic table, tarp rail and a proper outhouse. Very few of the campsites are car accessible. What is not to love?

Where to Go

The “Classic” Allagash trip starts at either Chamberlain Bridge or (in the Spring) Allagash Lake and ends at Allagash Village. These trips are a long haul – probably 10+ days. My personal recommendation, especially for first timers with a week to spend, is have a little less ambition and put in at either Indian Pond Stream or Churchill Dam. You will get to see the major sites, experience quite enough lake paddling and not miss any of the white water.

To my mind the best starter trip is from Churchill Dam to Michaud Farm. You will paddle the core of the Allagash and will have a comfortable five- or six-night trip. You will bounce around on Chase Rapids, cruise down Long Lake, run down to Round Pond and get to choose between all the best camp sites. The following year you can come back and run all the way to Allagash Village via Allagash Falls (and its 1/3-mile portage).

When to Go

My trips have spanned the last week in May and the first week in October. At both extremes there have been crispy mornings that can be mitigated by having a copious supply of firewood. The last week in May usually beats the black fly hatch and provides great views through the leafless forest. June is probably to be avoided on account of the aforementioned Simulium trifasciatum. July is a little busy with camp groups. My choice in the summer is late August or any time in September.

Who Should Go with You

You can solo if you wish but my recommendation is a group of four or six in tandem canoes. The mix of skills is not important. The critical issue is that you should all be there for the same reason. There are those for whom the primary goal of camping is sitting in camp and relaxing all day with adult beverages. Others want to do 40-mile days and have oatmeal for breakfast and dinner (skipping lunch). Make sure your party agrees on where they fall in this range.

Also, you should make it clear from the outset that the Allagash is not a “long weekend” trip. Unless you are blessed with a residence in The County you will need a day at both ends for travel so a five-night trip means setting aside at least a week.

What to Bring

You all know how to camp. In my mind the Allagash essentials include an ax and a saw (for all that firewood), a nice big tarp – the campsites are set up for tarps and it has been known to rain, and gear for cooking over the wood fire. I bring a small stove but seldom use it.

Oh, and an ABS/Royalex canoe. There are plenty of rocks and maybe a bit of dragging on late summer trips.

What to See

A hundred years ago the Allagash was a busy industrial site. The industry in question was the felling and transport of first growth forest timber. Many of the facilities are still in place, rusting in the woods or tastefully preserved for your inspection. The Tramway, the abandoned steam engines on Eagle Lake, and the Lombard Log Haulers at Cunliffe Depot are well known. You should not miss the museum at Churchill Dam nor should you fail to look at the camp sites and imagine them in their former roles as Native American camps, abandoned farm sites, or locations where old time guides brought “sports” from the city to enjoy the wilds.

Where to Camp

There are 81 official camp sites on the Allagash. I have some favorites that I am willing to share.

• The Jaws above Churchill Dam – the best sunsets on the river and a handy first night spot if you are starting from Churchill Dam
• High Bank opposite The Jaws - a nice private spot with great views
• Jalbert’s on Long Lake – again sunsets and a private beach
• Outlet on Round Pond - nice set up and handy for the spring on Round Pond
• Five Finger Brook West - two words – Brook Trout. Do not tell anybody about this site. Please!
• Cunliffe Depot - any bits and pieces from logging days and the Lombards

How to Get There (and Back)

The big question for an Allagash trip is where to leave your vehicle and/or whether to get shuttled at the beginning or end of the trip. If you choose to leave your ride at the take-out, you will be driving up Route 11 (The Old Military Road) to Fort Kent and will leave your vehicle at or near Allagash Village.

If you drive to the put-in, you can either get shuttled back to your car or have it driven out to your take-out by an outfitter. The roads to the put-in are logging roads, and you will have to pay tribute to North Maine Woods at their gatehouse. High ground clearance vehicles are recommended. Do NOT trust your GPS or you will end up in Ontario.

In either case you can do no better than engage Norm L’Italien of Pelletier’s Campground in Saint Francis. Norm is the Gold Standard. Enough said!

What to Do Next

Well, now that you are convinced, the thing to do is download and study the excellent guide available at aww-guide.pdf (maine.gov). So, learn the history, study the map, recruit the rest of your team, and wait for ice-out.

It is a magical place

For extra credit and pleasure hunt down a copy of “The Allagash” by Lew Dietz (the author of A Seal Called Andre). It is the very best read on the history of the Allagash Country.

Team Ludlow-Wheeler pulling into Michaud Farm at the end of a very
successful five-night trip in 1998. Yes, the kids did grow up to be river rats.

I finally made it to the Allagash – September 30, 2022 to October 5, 2022

Entering the Allagash

When I started paddling, I had two trips in Maine on my bucket list - the Dead and the Allagash. Both are classics - the Dead for its miles of whitewater, and the Allagash for its amazing river tripping. I did my first trip on the Dead in 2013, and have run it several times since. After two aborted attempts in the spring of 2020 and 2022, I have finally checked the Allagash off the list as well.

The State of Maine established the Allagash Wilderness Waterway in 1966 to preserve this unique section of the North Maine Woods. It is a 92.5-mile state park along the Allagash River that begins at Telos Lake and ends in Allagash Village. It is also one of the original "Wild and Scenic" rivers. While surrounded by commercial woodlands, logging is prohibited within 1-mile of the river. It can be reached only by traveling for miles on dirt logging roads.

Our campsite at The Jaws

I would be running the section from Churchill Dam to Michaud Farm with Jonathan, Conrad, Jules and Georgie (the dog). Jonathan called us the "dream team" - skill, enthusiasm, and a strong instinct to collect and chop firewood. We met at Jonathan’s house in Wiscasset on Thursday to load two of Jonathan’s Mad River Explorers and consolidate our gear. On Friday morning we were up early and heading north to Greenville where we started down miles of dirt logging roads. We registered at the Telos Checkpoint and continued on to Churchill Dam.

Visiting the trains/tramway

We put-in at the boat ramp at Churchill Dam and headed off to our first campsite – The Jaws. Jonathan’s 1-hp trolling motor seemed like cheating, but it made crossing Churchill Lake easy, as it would many times on this trip. We set up camp, foraged for firewood, cooked supper and settled in for the night.

On Saturday we decided to take a side trip down to Eagle Lake to see the abandoned railroad and tramway that are remnants of the Allagash’s logging past. It is a 10-mile trip each way through Churchill, Little Eagle and Eagle Lakes – probably more than we could handle without Jonathan’s trolling motor. We were surprised at the crowd visiting the train/tram site, which is now accessible by a nearby hiking trail. It got cloudy and windy for our trip back to Churchill, but Jonathan’s “putt-putt” motor pulled us through.

Conrad running Chase Rapid

On Sunday we began our trip down the river. We packed up camp and headed back to portage the Churchill Dam and run the Chase Rapids. We met the Ranger at the dam who shuttled our gear along with Jules and Georgie down to Bissonette Bridge. Chase Rapids is a 2-mile set of class I-II rapids just below the dam. Water level is controlled at the dam, and it generally runs around 500 cfs.

We met back-up with Jules and Georgie at Bissonette Bridge and re-loaded our boats for the trip down through Umsaskis Lake and into Long Lake. Our campsite for the evening was Grey Brook at the top of Long Lake. We would have camped at the Ledges on Umsaskis, but Carp beat us to it – one of the few times we saw other people on the trip.

View down Long Lake

On Monday, we made our way down Long Lake on our way to Round Pond. Jonathan’s “putt-putt” motor made easy work of Long Lake. As we approached the Long Lake Dam, we saw Carp poling through the broken dam. While it is recommended to line or portage this dam due to rebar, we decided to follow Carp’s line, and made it through fine. We continued down the river to our next campsite on Round Pond – Inlet.

We awoke on Tuesday morning to mist covering Round Pond. As usual, we got the fire started, cooked breakfast and packed up our gear for the trip down to Cunliffe Depot. This section of the river is a mix of shallow riffles and flatwater. The river was around 500 cfs, which meant that we would occasionally run aground in the shallows and have to drag our boats to deeper water.

End of the trip at Michaud Farm

After setting up camp at Cunliffe Depot, we took a walk to check out the Lombard Log Haulers abandoned in the woods nearby. These tracked vehicles, invented and built in Maine, allowed loggers to drag huge quantities of wood down to the river. They are the early precursors of the tracked bulldozers of today.

A heavy frost covered everything when we awoke on Wednesday morning for the last leg of our trip down to Michaud Farm. We had a light breakfast and did our best to pack up our frozen gear. Just a couple miles downstream we met Norm L’Italien from Pelletier's Campground for the shuttle back to our cars and the long drive home - it was so worth it!


I finally made it to the Allagash from Erik Eckilson on Vimeo. 

Links:

My Pictures

Allagash Wilderness Waterway from Maine.gov

Allagash Wilderness Waterway Brochure

Allagash National Wild and Scenic River

Gage at Allagash Village

North Maine Woods
Chase Rapids – American Whitewater
Pelletier's Campground and Shuttle

Planning for Fall Camping - Allagash River

In January of 2020 we were planning an Allagash camping trip for the spring. That is also when we started to hear about COVID-19, and little did we know what was coming. Obviously, that trip never happened. 

Two years later in the spring of 2022 we decided to give it another try. COVID was still with us and we were halfway through the Greek alphabet for variant designations, but we were all vaccinated and boosted. One week before the trip I tested positive for COVID and the trip got cancelled. I felt terrible, but a couple of days later Jonathan tested positive as well - misery loves company. 

Well, I still want to get up to Maine for my first Allagash trip and Jonathan needs to keep his annual string of trips going, so four intrepid campers (Jonathan, Conrad, Julie and me) are planning to do the long-delayed Allagash trip this fall. The plan is to spend a couple of days on the lakes, and then paddle the Allagash River. Here is what Jonathan came up with:

• Thursday, Sept. 29th - assemble at Jonathan’s in Wiscasset in time for dinner.
• Friday, Sept. 30th – leave Wiscasset early for the 5-hour drive to Churchill Dam. Camp at the Jaws between Heron Pond and Churchill Lake.
• Saturday, Oct. 1st - spare day – another night at the Jaws - explore Eagle Lake and visit the locomotives.
• Sunday, Oct. 2nd - Chase Rapids - camp on Unmasks or Long Lake
• Monday, Oct. 3rd - Long Lake Dam (line this one) - camp on Round Pond
• Tuesday, Oct. 4th - Round Pond to Five Finger Brook - camp at Five Finger Brook
• Wednesday, Oct. 6th – early start down to Michaud Farm to meet Norm L’Italien (Pelletier’s Campground) for the ride back to Churchill Dam. Drive back to Wiscasset, or the long drive home. 

We’ll bring coolers with real food for the first few days, then switch to freeze-dried. Lunches are on BYO. Jonathan will bring cooking gear and G&T for the 6:30 sundown meeting. Everyone will bring their own chair, camping gear, coffee mug, and other refreshments.  We'll have to figure out the remaining group gear.

Sounds like a plan - SYOTR in 35 days!

Ideas for Spring Camping Trips

I got an email from Jonathan with some suggestions for our spring camping trip. His thoughts were pretty ambitious.

Allagash

Indian Pond Stream or Churchill Dam to Allagash Village. Put in depends on wind forecast. Five or six nights. Lakes and moving water.  Class II at Chase Rapids. Shuttle to/from put in to Allagash Village. Again last week in May – 8-hour drive from Woonsocket.

The Allagash Wilderness Waterway is Maine’s best known canoe trip and has attracted paddler’s for more than a century. Henry David Thoreau ventured into this region more than 150 years ago by traveling into the Allagash via the Mud Pond Carry from the West Penobscot watershed. One of the great appeals of the Allagash River is its combination of large, glimmering lakes with a swift moving river. Sourced by some of the largest lakes in Maine, including Chamberlain Lake, Eagle Lake, and Churchill Lake, the Alligash allows many options of multi-day canoe tripping throughout the 102-mile waterway.

Baskahegan Stream

Undiscovered gem in Northern Washington County. Newly established camp sites on Baskaheagan Stream and Lake. Three or four night trip. Short portage at Danforth (with resupply possible at a general store). Slow water and lakes but very pretty and remote. Self shuttle possible.  Second or third week in May – 6-hour drive from Woonsocket.

Mostly a flat water trip, this remote soft adventure is available from May to mid-June and in the fall when the water level is sufficient. A great 1-4 day canoe trip with several put-in and takeout options. Beginning off route 6 near Topsfield, you’ll paddle 7.75 miles down a remote scenic stream and deadwater on your way to Baskahegan Lake.  After crossing the lake, continue down the stream with some moving water, some flatwater and great wildlife viewing. Popular take out is in Bancroft above the confluence with the Mattawamkeag River.

Debsconeag Loop Paddling Trail

From a post on CanoeTripping.net - 6-hour drive from Woonsocket.

The Debsconeag Loop Paddling Trail is meant to be traveled in a clockwise direction, west from Spencer Cove across Ambajejus and Pemadumcook Lakes and then north across the watershed divide to the Debsconeag Lakes to return southeast on the West Branch of the Penobscot River. From Third Debsconeag Lake there is an optional side-trip to Fourth Debsconeag. This route contains several portages and two major falls along the West Branch of the Penobscot. Videos from Maine Tripper - Part 1 and Part 2.

Machias River

Just below 5th Machias Lake or at exit of 4th Machias Lake to Machias Town. Four or five nights. Several (maybe) optional and one compulsory portages. Mostly moving water. Shuttle from Machias Town. Second week in May (Beware – may overlap with Mother’s Day!) – 6-hour drive from Woonsocket.

With the feel of a northern river, this scenic and wild waterway is downeast whitewater canoeing and camping at its finest. The Machias River is less traveled than the Allagash, Penobscot, and Saint John Rivers, and easier to access. The headwaters offer a series of scenic lakes and marshes, while the river offers numerous class I-II rapids and several technical class III rapids that can be lined or portage.

St. John River

Baker Lake to Dickie (no desire to start at 5th St John Pond!). Six nights. Moving water all the way with a Class III on days 4 and 6. Usually have one day for a layover. Shuttle to/from Baker Lake. Last week in May – 8-hour drive from Woonsocket.

One of Maine’s finest remote canoe trips, the St. John River flows 128 miles from its headwaters at the St. John Ponds to the Allagash River just below the town of Dickey. The trip from Baker Lake to the Town of Dickey is 105 miles and can be done in six or seven days. The river has an even gradient and no portages. Later in the trip is the mile-long Big Black Rapids, and 24-miles downstream from the Big Black Rapids and near trip’s end, is the Big Rapids, which are 2 miles long. Most groups put in at the outlet of Baker Lake.  Best run mid-May to mid-June.

St. Croix River

Classic Down East trip - could be a three/four/five night trip depending on how much of the lakes are included. The core trip is 2 or 3 days from Vanceboro to Kellyland. Mostly moving water and class I with one class II+ (Little Falls). Plenty of campsites but in theory one is meant to stick to the US or Canadian side for camping. Bring your passport! Second or third week in May - 6-hour drive from Woonsocket.

The St. Croix River arises in the small town of Vanceboro from its sources in East Grand and Spednic Lakes, and continues to its outlet with the Atlantic Ocean in Calais. The river meanders through the beautiful forests of eastern Maine. Featuring over 25 distinct rapids, ranging from light rips to Class II+ such as Little Falls and Canoose Ledge and the aptly named Rocky Rips. Trips on the St. Croix River can rage from 2 to 8 days with the most popular being a 4 day trip from Vanceboro to Kellyland.  

West Branch of the Penobscot River

Roll Dam to Chesuncook Village - could work as a 3 or 4 day trip. We probably would not be able to self shuttle - 7-hour drive from Woonsocket.

Best time to go is June through early September. Headwaters begin above Saboomook Lake. Below Saboomook there are 2 miles of class II-III rapids, which makes for an optional full day of whitewater canoeing. Below Roll Dam, the river flattens and widens out. It is 6.75 miles to where Lobster Lake enters on the right. A trip to scenic Lobster Lake (3 miles) can provide for a relaxing trip with its sandy beaches and beautiful setting. From the confluence of Lobster Stream and the Penobscot, the river flows easily for 15 miles to Chesuncook Lake. Chesuncook is a 19 mile paddle offering views of Katahdin to the east and a stop at remote Chesuncook Village to check out the local history and visit ‘The Store’.

East Branch of the Penobscot River

Katahdin Woods and Waters - 7-hour drive from Woonsocket.

Below the Grand Lake Matagamon dam is the scenic and rugged East Branch of the Penobscot River with whitewater rapids and views of the Traveler Mountains to the west in Baxter State Park. It is a 27-mile trip from the Matagamon Wilderness Campground to Whetstone Falls with several mandatory portages around scenic waterfalls including Haskell Rock Pitch, Pond Pitch, Grand Pitch and Hauling Machine Pitch. 

Conrad suggested some trips that are closer and a little less ambitious:

• Magalloway to Lake Umbagog
• Mooselukmeguntic to Lower Richardson
• Saco
• Casco Bay or Beal Island and Maine Island Trail

I decided that I wanted to do all of them, but we seem to be leaning toward the Allagash in May.

We'll see...

Links:
Canoe the Wild Registered Maine Guides

Maine Trails Guide Service