Two Weeks on Salt Water - August 1, 2020

Our annual summer vacation at the beach ended today, so packing up to go home trumped paddling this morning. I paddled almost every day of our two-week vacation (missed one day due to work and one day due to weather) and paddled a lot of old favorites including the Narrow River, Dutch Harbor, Harbor of Refuge, Wickford and Jamestown Harbor. Of course, I spent a lot of time paddling on Point Judith Pond, including a fun trip with RICKA at Potter Pond. 

I avoided the whitecaps, paddled through lots of rollers, and never tipped over, but I did paddle into a lot of headwinds, so this song from Jerry Vandiver seems appropriate for this years' vacation video.


Two Weeks on Salt Water from Erik Eckilson on Vimeo.

The Narrows – July 31, 2020

Approaching the beach

I woke up this morning to light rain but no fog, so I decided to head over to the Narrow River to paddle the Narrows. I had paddled the Narrow River last week, but it was low tide so we didn’t paddle out into the bay

It was high tide as I put in at the Sprague Bridge and headed downstream. Fishermen in rain gear lined the banks. As I came out around the beach the water was calm immediately behind rocks, but one-foot waves were breaking over on the beach. I paddled around Bass Rock and about halfway to Cormorant Point before heading back.

In the rocks behind Cormorant Point

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Paddle Map - Lower Narrow River

Port of Galilee - July 20, 2020

Charter boats

With pea soup fog I didn’t get to paddle this morning, so I put my boat in the water this afternoon and padded down to Galilee. I knew that the afternoon light would be good for getting pictures of the fishing boats in the harbor.

Great Island is about 2 miles long and 1/2 mile wide, and full of summer cottages. I headed south into a moderate headwind and easy rolling waves past Thomas Point and Little Comfort and into the Port of Galilee.  

Commercial fishing boats

The Port of Galilee was created in 1935 when a harbor was dredged and a dock constructed at the mouth of Point Judith Pond. Connected to the ocean by the  Breakaway and the Harbor of Refuge, both completed in 1910, Galilee eventually became the home port for much of Rhode Island's fishing industry.

There was an eclectic collection of ships docked in the harbor - large fishing trawlers, smaller lobster and shellfish boats and charter boats. Generations of fishermen have sailed from the Port of Galilee to work the waters of Narragansett Bay, Block Island Sound and beyond.

Last green buoy before the Breachway

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Jamestown Harbor and Potter Cove - July 29, 2020

Newport Bridge from Jamestown

I headed back to Jamestown this morning to paddle around Jamestown Harbor and get some pictures of the Newport Bridge.  

The Newport Bridge was completed in 1969 and is the longest suspension bridge in New England. It spans the East Passage of the Narragansett Bay from Jamestown to Newport. The main span is over 1,600 feet long, and the road deck is more 200 feet above the water. The towers themselves are over 400 feet tall.

Fishing at Taylor Point

I put in at the East Ferry Boat Ramp in Jamestown and headed out into Jamestown Harbor. I usually head south toward the Dumplings - a grouping of rocks just off Bull Point. The most prominent of the Dumplings is Clingstone or the "House on the Rock". This time I decided to go north around Taylor Point into Potter Cove.

Potter Cove is a long sandy beach facing the East Passage of Narragansett Bay. The beach and Taylor Point, which is just south of the beach are both part of a town park that is popular for fishing, windsurfing, kayaking and picnicking. On most days a southwest wind blows from morning through the afternoon producing strong waves. Today the breeze was slack and the bay was dead flat. The sky was cloudy resulting in some interesting pictures of the bridge.

Newport Bridge from Taylor Point

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Dutch Harbor and the Dutch Island Light - July 28, 2020

View from the put-in

I didn't get to paddle yesterday, so I decided to head over to Jamestown today to paddle out to Dutch Island and the Dutch Island Light. 

Dutch Island is located on the West Passage of Narragansett Bay and took its name from the Dutch East India Company that established a trading post here around 1636. In 1654 English colonists purchased the island from the Narragansett Indians.

Dutch Island Light (c. 1857)

For many years, the island was fortified to protect the West Passage from invasion by sea. In the 1890’s the Army established Fort Greble here. Like Fort Weatherill on the East Passage, Fort Greble was active through World War II and was part of a series of heavily fortified artillery placements that protected Narragansett Bay including Fort Greene on Point Judith and Fort Adams in Newport.

The first lighthouse was completed on the southern tip of Dutch Island in 1826. The original tower was replaced with the current tower in 1857. The lighthouse remained in service until 1979 when it was replaced with a flashing buoy. It then fell into disrepair until 2007 when it was restored by the Dutch Island Lighthouse Society.

Looking west to the URI Bay Campus

Dutch Island is located about a mile from either the URI Bay Campus or Dutch Harbor, but the crossings couldn't be different. From the Bay Campus you cross the West Passage of Narragansett Bay with boat traffic and big rolling waves. I did that crossing last year with Tony on one of his sit-on-top sea kayaks, and it was an interesting trip.  From Dutch Harbor the crossing is more protected. 

I put in at Dutch Harbor, and paddled out into the calm water toward the Dutch Island. The waves increased as I approached the lighthouse on the southern tip of the island, so I decided not to paddle around the point or up the west side. I landed and took some pictures from shore before heading back.

Dutch Island Light

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Dutch Island Lighthouse Society

Lower Point Judith Pond and Potter Pond with RICKA – July 26, 2020

Heading out from Knowlesway Ext.

For the past couple of years I have been leading RICKA trips on Point Judith Pond while I am on vacation. This year with COVID-19 I wasn’t sure if I should, but in the end I decided I would, and I am glad that I did.  

Point Judith Pond, or the Great Salt Pond, is located along the border of Narragansett and South Kingstown, and is the second largest of the Rhode Island’s South County salt ponds. It is a shallow, four-mile long pond located behind the barrier beaches and sand dunes that form Point Judith Harbor. The pond is 20 miles around with many pretty islands and coves to explore.

Fishing Boats in Galilee

Our usual put-in for this trip is at the marina on the Upper Pond. Unfortunately, that starts us on the northern end of the pond, and I really prefer the southern end. For this trip I decided to launch at the Knowlesway Ext Waterfront Public Access Point instead - more on that later. 

We would be paddling across lower Point Judith Pond just above Galilee, though the coastal inlet at Snug Harbor, and over to Potter Pond – a 6-mile trip that doesn’t get paddled very often. We headed out into a slight breeze from the south and an incoming tide. We crossed under the Great Island Bridge did our best to stay out of the boat channels around Galilee.

After the crossing at Snug Harbor

The Port of Galilee was created in 1935 when a harbor was dredged and a dock constructed at the mouth of Point Judith Pond. Connected to the ocean by the Breakaway and protected by the Harbor of Refuge, both completed in 1910, Galilee is the homeport to much of Rhode Island's fishing fleet. Generations of fishermen have sailed from Galilee to work the waters of Narragansett Bay, Block Island Sound and beyond.

We crossed the main boat channel at Snug Harbor and paddled through the coastal inlet that connects Point Judith Pond to Potter Pond. At the southern end of Potter Pond are sand flats and the barrier beaches created by East Matunuck State Beach. The northern end is more wooded with a deep “kettle hole” left by retreating glaciers. 

Pat checks out her sail on the return trip

We explored the northern end of the pond until the jet skis and motorboats scared us away. We then headed south and west to the Ocean Avenue Waterfront Access in Matunuck for lunch and a swim at East Matunuck State Beach. The beach was packed, but we wore our masks and stayed socially distanced. From there we headed back to Point Judith Pond.  

As we approached the inlet leading back to Point Judith Pond we found the incoming tide rushing through the narrow channel – even motor boats were having difficulty getting through. Peter and Gary were able to follow the eddies and paddle up through the fast moving water. The rest of us walked our boats up the left side of the channel. The current was also fast under the Succotash Road Bridge, but we were able to paddle up through there, and provide some entertainment for the customers at the Matunuck Oyster Bar.

Waiting for the boat traffic crossing back

By the time we got back to Snug Harbor the boat traffic had increased significantly, and it was a mad dash across the main boat channel. From there it is an easy paddle back to the put-in.  

When we got back to put-in we found an unwelcome surprise – tickets on all the cars. The street isn’t posted "No Parking" so we called the police station to complain. They said that the tickets were issued in error, and that we should drop them off at the police station so they can be rescinded. I dropped them off and got a confirmation the next day - thank goodness. Other than the tickets, it was a fun day with a great group of paddlers.

Danny checking out the view down to the Breachway

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Harbor of Refuge – July 25, 2020

Fishermen at the east passage

I felt a little more ambitious this morning, so I headed over to Camp Cronin to paddle inside the breakwater at the Harbor of Refuge.

Even after construction of the Point Judith Light (c. 1810/1857) conditions remained treacherous at the tip of Point Judith and a Federal project was initiated to construct over 3-miles of jetties to provide a secure breakwater refuge for shipping. Work began in 1890 with construction of the east (3,640 feet) and west (2,240 feet) jetties, and was completed in 1910 with construction the V-shaped center jetty (6,970 feet).  A 1,500-foot opening was left for the east passage, and a 1,200-foot opening was left for the west passage.

Breaks in the seawall

While the jetties were originally constructed to provide a refuge for ships traveling between Boston and New York during bad weather, they also protected the newly constructed Port of Galilee. In 1910, the Town of South Kingstown and the State of Rhode Island dredged the current Breachway and stabilized it with stone jetties. Then, in the 1930's, the State of Rhode Island dredged an anchorage basin just inside the Breachway and built wharves to create a port for large, ocean-going fishing vessels. This allowed the Galilee to become one of the largest fishing ports on the east coast

During World War II, much of the land on Point Judith was part of Fort Greene - named for Revolutionary war hero Nathanael Greene. Huge sixteen inch guns were located in the area now known as Fisherman's Memorial State Park to protect the west side of Narragansett Bay. Smaller fortifications were located along the shoreline. Fort Greene was part of a network of forts protecting Narragansett Bay including Fort Adams in Newport, Fort Greble on Dutch Island, Fort Weatherill in Jamestown, and Fort Hamilton on Rose Island.

Sea birds on the rocks

There were lots of fishermen on the jetty and several boats out by the east passage as I headed out. The sea was relatively calm behind the breakwater with small wind-blown waves, but I crossed the east passage in 1-2 foot rolling waves. I usually I do the loop up the east jetty, down the west jetty and across the beach - about 4-miles.  Today I did an up and back along the east jetty - about 2.5 miles.  

The east side of the center jetty is in much worse condition than the west, which has been rebuilt. Huge boulders have been pushed aside leaving large gaps in the seawall. It's hard to imagine that water can move those huge rocks. I paddled by the cormorants and other shore birds resting on the seawall out to the tip of the "V" in the center jetty before heading back.

At the tip of the "V" in the center jetty

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Camp Cronin fro RI Blueways

Wickford – July 24, 2020

The Castle

I wasn’t sure what the conditions would be like, so I decided to head to Wilson Park to paddle around the calm waters of Wickford Harbor.  

Wickford is located on the West Passage of Narragansett Bay and is built around a large, well-protected harbor. It was established in the early 17th century when Roger William purchased land from the Narragansett Indians and established a trading post. In 1637, Williams sold the land to Richard Smith who constructed a large fortified house on the site, giving the house its nickname the “Castle”. That house was burned during King Philip's War, and the structure that can be seen from the put-in today was built in1678.

Wickford Harbor

While the backwaters around Rabbit Island and Cornelius Island looked interesting, I headed out into Wickford Harbor as far as the breakwater, and then into Wickford Cove. With the exception of a couple of fishing boats, the marinas were quiet.

Wickford grew to become a major port and shipbuilding center, and today contains a large collection of 17th and 18th century homes. It is a picturesque village whose streets are lined with shops and restaurants.

Wickford Cove

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Wilson Park from RI Blueways

Potter Pond – July 23, 2020

I’m leading a RICKA trip on Sunday, and I was looking for a way to offer something different. Rather then putting in at Marina Park in the Upper Pond, I decided to put in at the Knowlesway Ext Waterfront Public Access Point. This starts us off in the lower part of the pond, which I find a lot more interesting. The the trip I am planning will take us around Great Island, and then head west to Snug Harbor and into Potter Pond.  

From Potter Pond we would stop at the Ocean Ave Waterfront Public Access Point and cross over the barrier beach to have lunch at Matunuck Beach. I did that trip today and it took me about 3 hours.

Potter Pond, once known as Fish Pond because of its unusually productive fishery resources, is connected by a tidal inlet to Point Judith Pond.  The southern end of the pond is characterized by sand flats created by wash-over from the barrier beach (East Matunuck State Beach) during hurricanes.  The northern basin is a deep “kettle hole” left by retreating glaciers. No rivers flow into Potter Pond, but freshwater it provided by underground springs seeping in around the northern edges of the pond. With the exception of the villages of Snug Harbor to the east and Matunuck to the west, most of the land around Potter Pond is sparsely developed and maintains a sense of open space.

Oyster farm on Potter Pond looking west to Matunuck

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Upper Point Judith Pond – July 22, 2020

The forecast was for rain, so I decided to stay local and paddle the upper end of Point Judith Pond. It’s a nice trip exploring the coves and islands in the upper pond.

Osprey Nest in Bottonwood Point

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Narrow River – July 21, 2020

Gregg and Jean Marie at the put-in

I got an email for Bill that Gregg and Jean Marie were organizing a trip in the Narrow River. Michelle had a doctor’s appointment anyway so I decided to join in.  

The Narrow River (also known at the Pettaquamscutt River) is the tidal extension of the Mattatuxet River. It begins below the Carr Pond Dam at the Gilbert Stuart Birthplace and flows south for approximately 6.3-miles forming the border between South Kingstown and Narragansett before entering Pettaquamscutt Cove and then flowing out into Narragansett Bay. The Narrow River gets its name from either the long narrow section from Lacy Bridge (Bridgetown Road) and the Mettatuxett Yacht Club (Middlebridge Road), or the narrow mouth of the river where it empties into Narragansett Bay. 

Into the Upper Pond

We put in at the town boat launch near Bridgetown Road (40 Pettaquamscutt Ave, Narragansett, RI 02882). Not wanting to paddle back up stream, I decided to do a bike shuttle from the Sprague Bridge. There were 7 kayaks (Gregg O’Brien, Jean Marie Josephson, Bill Luther, Bill Hahn, Bill Rush, Mike Rinaldi and Mike Krabach) and one canoe (me).  The day was sunny and warm with a slight breeze from the south 

We headed upstream into the Upper Pond. After a quick break at the old Girl Scout Camp Nokewa (now owned by the Nature Conservancy) we paddled up the narrow section of the river that leads to the Gilbert Stuart Birthplace (too shallow for me) before heading back downstream.

Through the Narrows

After paddling through the Upper Pond and the Lake, we entered the Narrows between Lacy Bridge (Bridgetown Road) and the Mettatuxett Yacht Club (Middletown Road).  I had never paddled this section before. From there, we paddled through the Flats (Pettaquamscutt Cove) and under the Sprague Bridge to the beach.  

The beach was crowded with motor boats and every type of paddlecraft imaginable. Unfortunately, it was low tide, so paddling out through what I think of as the Narrows into Narragansett Bay wasn’t an option.  I paddled back to my car at the Sparague Bridge and the rest of the crew continued back to the put-in.  

Approaching the Beach

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Narrow River Preservation Association
Paddle Map - Upper Narrow River
Paddle Map -  Lower Narrow River

Around Ram Island – July 20, 2020

I woke up to fog (again), which then turned to rain, but as the fog lifted and the rain let up I got out for a paddle around Ram Island.

Ram Island is the largest of a series of islands across the middle of Point Judith Pond – Ram Island, Jonathan Island, Beach Island, Gardner Island and Plato Island. Ram Island is posted no trespassing. Jonathan Island and Plato Island have houses on them. Beach Island is the best place to stop for lunch.

As I headed out toward Jonathan Island the rain pick up and the fog rolled back in. I headed up as far as Beach Island before turning around and heading back down the east side of Ram Island to return to the cottage.

Horseshoe Point

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Around Great Island - July 19, 2020

Heading out into the fog

I woke up this morning to pea soup fog and a slight breeze, but that didn’t stop me from my traditional “first-day-of-vacation” trip around Great Island in Point Judith Pond. 

Point Judith Pond is the second largest of Rhode Island’s South County salt ponds. Separated in the south behind sand dunes and barrier beaches, Point Judith Pond is connected to the ocean through the Breachway at Galilee.

Fishing boats in Galilee

Great Island is one of three large islands on the pond - the other two are Harbor Island and Ram Island. I put-in at our cottage and headed south into the fog past Frank's Neck, into Bluff Hill Cove, and under the Great Island Bridge into Galilee.

The fishing village of Galilee was developed in 1935 when the State of Rhode Island dredged out a harbor suitable for commercial fishing vessels. I paddled down to the last green buoy before the Breachway that connects Galilee to the Harbor of Refuge. From there, I headed back up the west side to the island to the cottage.

Boats heading out into the Breachway

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