Last October I completed my 29th visit to the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. Yes, I like the place.
It occurs to me that while my fellow Chowderheads are probably aware of the Waterway they may not realize what a wonderful place it is.
My strong impression from advertised club trips and accounts in the truly estimable trip book is that club members focus is either on courageous white-water descents on Class 3+ Spring run offs or on heroic saltwater voyages of discovery.
While I know that the PPCS tribe indulges in other modes of messing about in boats, I want to use this opportunity to promote what I consider the third leg of canoe/kayak sport – down river tripping. I will do this by describing the wonders of the Allagash Waterway and offering some suggestions for key factors to be considered in planning and executing a trip.
First of All – What and Where
The Allagash is a 100-mile-long protected limited access wilderness waterway that includes headwater lakes and 98 miles of North flowing river. There are no public roads, permanent habitations, or retail stores. There is no cell service. The waterway is surrounded by North Maine Woods administered forests. Access is over logging roads. It is as close to a pure wilderness experience as you will get east of the Mississippi.
The longest potential trip of 100 miles from Allagash Lake to Allagash Village involves only one significant portage. The waterway is dressed with 81 rustic camp sites equipped with a fireplace, picnic table, tarp rail and a proper outhouse. Very few of the campsites are car accessible. What is not to love?
Where to Go
The “Classic” Allagash trip starts at either Chamberlain Bridge or (in the Spring) Allagash Lake and ends at Allagash Village. These trips are a long haul – probably 10+ days. My personal recommendation, especially for first timers with a week to spend, is have a little less ambition and put in at either Indian Pond Stream or Churchill Dam. You will get to see the major sites, experience quite enough lake paddling and not miss any of the white water.
To my mind the best starter trip is from Churchill Dam to Michaud Farm. You will paddle the core of the Allagash and will have a comfortable five- or six-night trip. You will bounce around on Chase Rapids, cruise down Long Lake, run down to Round Pond and get to choose between all the best camp sites. The following year you can come back and run all the way to Allagash Village via Allagash Falls (and its 1/3-mile portage).
When to Go
My trips have spanned the last week in May and the first week in October. At both extremes there have been crispy mornings that can be mitigated by having a copious supply of firewood. The last week in May usually beats the black fly hatch and provides great views through the leafless forest. June is probably to be avoided on account of the aforementioned Simulium trifasciatum. July is a little busy with camp groups. My choice in the summer is late August or any time in September.
Who Should Go with You
You can solo if you wish but my recommendation is a group of four or six in tandem canoes. The mix of skills is not important. The critical issue is that you should all be there for the same reason. There are those for whom the primary goal of camping is sitting in camp and relaxing all day with adult beverages. Others want to do 40-mile days and have oatmeal for breakfast and dinner (skipping lunch). Make sure your party agrees on where they fall in this range.
Also, you should make it clear from the outset that the Allagash is not a “long weekend” trip. Unless you are blessed with a residence in The County you will need a day at both ends for travel so a five-night trip means setting aside at least a week.
What to Bring
You all know how to camp. In my mind the Allagash essentials include an ax and a saw (for all that firewood), a nice big tarp – the campsites are set up for tarps and it has been known to rain, and gear for cooking over the wood fire. I bring a small stove but seldom use it.
Oh, and an ABS/Royalex canoe. There are plenty of rocks and maybe a bit of dragging on late summer trips.
What to See
A hundred years ago the Allagash was a busy industrial site. The industry in question was the felling and transport of first growth forest timber. Many of the facilities are still in place, rusting in the woods or tastefully preserved for your inspection. The Tramway, the abandoned steam engines on Eagle Lake, and the Lombard Log Haulers at Cunliffe Depot are well known. You should not miss the museum at Churchill Dam nor should you fail to look at the camp sites and imagine them in their former roles as Native American camps, abandoned farm sites, or locations where old time guides brought “sports” from the city to enjoy the wilds.
Where to Camp
There are 81 official camp sites on the Allagash. I have some favorites that I am willing to share.
The big question for an Allagash trip is where to leave your vehicle and/or whether to get shuttled at the beginning or end of the trip. If you choose to leave your ride at the take-out, you will be driving up Route 11 (The Old Military Road) to Fort Kent and will leave your vehicle at or near Allagash Village.
If you drive to the put-in, you can either get shuttled back to your car or have it driven out to your take-out by an outfitter. The roads to the put-in are logging roads, and you will have to pay tribute to North Maine Woods at their gatehouse. High ground clearance vehicles are recommended. Do NOT trust your GPS or you will end up in Ontario.
In either case you can do no better than engage Norm L’Italien of Pelletier’s Campground in Saint Francis. Norm is the Gold Standard. Enough said!
What to Do Next
Well, now that you are convinced, the thing to do is download and study the excellent guide available at aww-guide.pdf (maine.gov). So, learn the history, study the map, recruit the rest of your team, and wait for ice-out.
It is a magical place
For extra credit and pleasure hunt down a copy of “The Allagash” by Lew Dietz (the author of A Seal Called Andre). It is the very best read on the history of the Allagash Country.
It occurs to me that while my fellow Chowderheads are probably aware of the Waterway they may not realize what a wonderful place it is.
My strong impression from advertised club trips and accounts in the truly estimable trip book is that club members focus is either on courageous white-water descents on Class 3+ Spring run offs or on heroic saltwater voyages of discovery.
While I know that the PPCS tribe indulges in other modes of messing about in boats, I want to use this opportunity to promote what I consider the third leg of canoe/kayak sport – down river tripping. I will do this by describing the wonders of the Allagash Waterway and offering some suggestions for key factors to be considered in planning and executing a trip.
First of All – What and Where
The Allagash is a 100-mile-long protected limited access wilderness waterway that includes headwater lakes and 98 miles of North flowing river. There are no public roads, permanent habitations, or retail stores. There is no cell service. The waterway is surrounded by North Maine Woods administered forests. Access is over logging roads. It is as close to a pure wilderness experience as you will get east of the Mississippi.
The longest potential trip of 100 miles from Allagash Lake to Allagash Village involves only one significant portage. The waterway is dressed with 81 rustic camp sites equipped with a fireplace, picnic table, tarp rail and a proper outhouse. Very few of the campsites are car accessible. What is not to love?
Where to Go
The “Classic” Allagash trip starts at either Chamberlain Bridge or (in the Spring) Allagash Lake and ends at Allagash Village. These trips are a long haul – probably 10+ days. My personal recommendation, especially for first timers with a week to spend, is have a little less ambition and put in at either Indian Pond Stream or Churchill Dam. You will get to see the major sites, experience quite enough lake paddling and not miss any of the white water.
To my mind the best starter trip is from Churchill Dam to Michaud Farm. You will paddle the core of the Allagash and will have a comfortable five- or six-night trip. You will bounce around on Chase Rapids, cruise down Long Lake, run down to Round Pond and get to choose between all the best camp sites. The following year you can come back and run all the way to Allagash Village via Allagash Falls (and its 1/3-mile portage).
When to Go
My trips have spanned the last week in May and the first week in October. At both extremes there have been crispy mornings that can be mitigated by having a copious supply of firewood. The last week in May usually beats the black fly hatch and provides great views through the leafless forest. June is probably to be avoided on account of the aforementioned Simulium trifasciatum. July is a little busy with camp groups. My choice in the summer is late August or any time in September.
Who Should Go with You
You can solo if you wish but my recommendation is a group of four or six in tandem canoes. The mix of skills is not important. The critical issue is that you should all be there for the same reason. There are those for whom the primary goal of camping is sitting in camp and relaxing all day with adult beverages. Others want to do 40-mile days and have oatmeal for breakfast and dinner (skipping lunch). Make sure your party agrees on where they fall in this range.
Also, you should make it clear from the outset that the Allagash is not a “long weekend” trip. Unless you are blessed with a residence in The County you will need a day at both ends for travel so a five-night trip means setting aside at least a week.
What to Bring
You all know how to camp. In my mind the Allagash essentials include an ax and a saw (for all that firewood), a nice big tarp – the campsites are set up for tarps and it has been known to rain, and gear for cooking over the wood fire. I bring a small stove but seldom use it.
Oh, and an ABS/Royalex canoe. There are plenty of rocks and maybe a bit of dragging on late summer trips.
What to See
A hundred years ago the Allagash was a busy industrial site. The industry in question was the felling and transport of first growth forest timber. Many of the facilities are still in place, rusting in the woods or tastefully preserved for your inspection. The Tramway, the abandoned steam engines on Eagle Lake, and the Lombard Log Haulers at Cunliffe Depot are well known. You should not miss the museum at Churchill Dam nor should you fail to look at the camp sites and imagine them in their former roles as Native American camps, abandoned farm sites, or locations where old time guides brought “sports” from the city to enjoy the wilds.
Where to Camp
There are 81 official camp sites on the Allagash. I have some favorites that I am willing to share.
- The Jaws above Churchill Dam – the best sunsets on the river and a handy first night spot if you are starting from Churchill Dam
- High Bank opposite The Jaws - a nice private spot with great views
- Jalbert’s on Long Lake – again sunsets and a private beach
- Outlet on Round Pond - nice set up and handy for the spring on Round Pond
- Five Finger Brook West - two words – Brook Trout. Do not tell anybody about this site. Please!
- Cunliffe Depot - any bits and pieces from logging days and the Lombards
The big question for an Allagash trip is where to leave your vehicle and/or whether to get shuttled at the beginning or end of the trip. If you choose to leave your ride at the take-out, you will be driving up Route 11 (The Old Military Road) to Fort Kent and will leave your vehicle at or near Allagash Village.
If you drive to the put-in, you can either get shuttled back to your car or have it driven out to your take-out by an outfitter. The roads to the put-in are logging roads, and you will have to pay tribute to North Maine Woods at their gatehouse. High ground clearance vehicles are recommended. Do NOT trust your GPS or you will end up in Ontario.
In either case you can do no better than engage Norm L’Italien of Pelletier’s Campground in Saint Francis. Norm is the Gold Standard. Enough said!
What to Do Next
Well, now that you are convinced, the thing to do is download and study the excellent guide available at aww-guide.pdf (maine.gov). So, learn the history, study the map, recruit the rest of your team, and wait for ice-out.
It is a magical place
For extra credit and pleasure hunt down a copy of “The Allagash” by Lew Dietz (the author of A Seal Called Andre). It is the very best read on the history of the Allagash Country.
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| Team Ludlow-Wheeler pulling into Michaud Farm at the end of a very successful five-night trip in 1998. Yes, the kids did grow up to be river rats. |
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