Saturday, April 30, 2022

Lower Winni – April 30 2022

Surf wave below the put-in
I’d been fighting a cold all week, but I really wanted to do the last class III step-up paddle with the NHAMC. This week’s trip was on the Lower Winni – another river that I've wanted to run in my canoe for a long time. The weather was right, the level was right, the group was right and I was felling OK, so I went and I'm glad I did.

The Winnipesaukee River (also known as the Winni) is a 10-mile river that that runs from Lake Winnipesaukee to Franklin where it joins with the Pemigewasset River to form the Merrimack. There are two whitewater runs on the Winnipesaukee.

Running Coliseum
The Upper Winni from Tilton Road to Riverfront Park in Tilton is an easy class I/II run that is the site of an annual slalom race. It was one of the first trips that I did with the NHAMC way back in 2006, and I have run it many times since.

The Lower Winni from the Cross Mill Road Bridge in Northfield to Trestle View Park in Franklin is a class III(+) run from 1,000 cfs to 1,500 cfs. Above 1,500 cfs some of the rapids become class IV. I ran it in a shredder at 1,100 cfs on New Year’s Day several years ago. The level on this run was 3.6 ft, 725 cfs (class II+/III) - a good beginner and open boat level.

Above Railroad
We met at the put-in at the Cross Mill Road Bridge to run the shuttle. It’s a relatively short run of about a mile-and-a-half, so people often do multiple runs. The river started off with waves and rocks as we ran through Snowmobile and Iron Ring. Even at this level there is lots of potential for a pinned boat or a nasty swim. 

The first major rapid is known as Coliseum. At higher water levels this can be a very dangerous rapid since about a third of the river channels into the foundation of an old mill building on the right – the “Room of Doom”. I took the left line catching the eddy at the top, and then running down the left side avoiding the wall on the left and the rocks in the center.

Approaching Zippy's 
Another half-mile downstream is the next major rapid – Railroad. The river splits around the center support for a railroad bridge with routes on the right and the left. The right side has a 3' drop that we took twice when I ran this in the shredder - once resulting in a swim. This time I took the left line staying just to the right of the large rocks on the left side. 

There were more rocks and waves as we ran through Sulphite to the last rapid - Zippy's Final Plunge. Unfortunately, there was wood in the usual lines through Zippy’s, so we took out above. One run was enough for me - I made it down fine and considered myself lucky. I did walk up the Winnipesaukee River Trail to get some pictures of the crew going through Railroad on their second run. 

Waiting for the rest of the crew at Railroad

Sunday, April 24, 2022

Contoocook - April 23, 2022

Getting organized 
When I was just starting to paddle, I was always amazed at some of the rivers that other open boaters would run. One of the more challenging rivers that I have wanted to run for years is the class III “Freight Train” section of the Contoocook in Henniker. I finally got my chance as part of the NHAMC Class III Step-up Paddles.

The Contoocook River arises at Poole Pond in Rindge, NH and flows generally north for 71-miles to Concord, NH where it empties into the Merrimack River. With a large drainage basin and a total drop of over 700 feet, the Contoocook is one one the premier whitewater rivers in New England. I'd be running the two best-known sections on this trip - the class III “Freight Train” section from Hillsboro to Henniker, and class II section from the twin bridges to the Ramsdell Bridge in Henniker.

Heading out
We met at 10:00 at the class III put-in on Western Avenue and ran the shuttle down to the take-out at the Remsdell Bridge. The normal take out for the class III section is at the twin bridges, but we would be running the class II section as well. The river was at a perfect open boat level – 7.3 feet, 950 cfs on the Henniker gage. Paul described it as low and technical. 

We had 20 paddlers that were divided into 3 pods. I was in the first pod with Frank. I saw one other open boat on the river – Charlie Sweet who was running a trip for Boston/AMC. We headed downstream and worked our way through the various rapids. At this level, most were class II+. I ran class III S-Turn without a problem – it was actually shorter than I expected.

Happy face below Freight Train
We got out of our boats to scout class III Freight Train, and watched as a group of kayakers came through. At this level, the rapid is a series of three drops with big holes in the middle and large standing waves below. The first drop has a large rock with a small rock next to it on river right. If you hug the left side of small rock, it will line you up to run the next two drops just right of the holes. I went a little too far to the left on the first drop, and got twisted around on a rock in the second drop. I ran the second drop backwards, but got myself turned around for the third. I filled my boat up in the standing waves below and had to head to shore to empty. The rapid looks entirely at higher water.

Most of the group called it quits after the class III section, but a few of us decide to continue downstream through the class II section. The last time I ran this section was in 2005 on the first day of the NHAMC Whitewater School. At this level the top was flatwater, but the Broken Dam Rapid at the Ramsdell Bridge was fun.

Approaching the broken Dam Rapid on the Class II Section
Links:

Sunday, April 10, 2022

Pemi - Woodstock – April 9, 2022

Running the Ledges
I thought I would be leaving today for a 4-day business trip to CA, but it got cancelled. That freed-up a day this weekend to paddle. For the second week in a row, I was on the road early Saturday morning heading up Route I-93 to the White Mountains to paddle the Class III Step-up trip with the NHAMC. This time we would be paddling the Woodstock section of the Pemi.

The Pemigewasset River, also known as the “Pemi”, arises at Profile Lake at the base of Cannon Mountain in the Franconia Notch. It flows south for 65-miles to Franklin where it joins the Winnipesaukee River to form the Merrimack River. There are a couple of other sections of the Pemi that I have paddled including the quickwater section from Woodstock/Thornton to Campton and the whitewater section in Bristol. The class II section in Woodstock is one of my favorites.

The gallery at the Ledges
We met at 10:00 at the put-in behind the Fire Station (51 Daniel Webster Highway, North Woodstock, NH), and ran the shuttle down to the take-out at the Ledges (Death Valley Road at the third Route 175 Bridge, North Woodstock, NH). The river was at a medium-low level – 4.5 feet, 1,250 cfs. We had 14 boats – 13 kayaks and one canoe.

We divided into two groups of 7 for the run downstream. The two most difficult rapids are at the beginning and at the end. Right at the put-in is a 2-foot drop that is run in the center. After that, the river is mostly quiclkwater with couple of class II rapids – Woodstock Squeeze, Gravel Pit and Powerline. The biggest rapid is the Ledges at the end. It is class II+/III depending on water level. We all did a couple of laps at the Ledges trying different lines.

 

Saturday, April 2, 2022

Ammonoosuc - Twin Mountain to Pierce Bridge - April 2, 2022

One in every crowd
When I started paddling, I often heard people talk about “paddling in the Whites”. By “the Whites” they meant the White Mountains and rivers like the Saco, Pemigewasset, the Swift and Ammonoosuc. Unfortunately, it’s a long drive for me and those rivers can be tough to catch. I've
 done a few sections of the Pemi and the Saco over the years, but never the Ammonoosuc. That changed today on a trip with the NHAMC.

After missing the last two weeks, I was looking forward to this week’s Class III Step-up trip. A couple of inches of rain on Friday brought all the rivers up, so there were lots of options. The decision was made to run the Ammonoosuc from Twin Mountain to Pierce Bridge, which includes the Boat Breaker Rapid.

The Twins - Twin Mountain
The Ammonoosuc River arises at Lakes of the Clouds in the saddle between Mount Washington and Mount Monroe. It rumbles down the mountains and flows generally southwest for 55-miles to converge with the Connecticut River in Woodville. The Wild Ammonoosuc joins the Ammonoosuc in Bath. In spite of its name, the Upper Ammonoosuc is not the upstream portion of the Ammonoosuc River, but an entirely separate tributary of the Connecticut River about 25-miles to the north.

It's a 3-hour drive up to Twin Mountain, so I got an early start. The sky was blue, but clouds hung low over the mountains as I approached the Franconia Notch. White snow on the mountain tops was a reminder of how cold the water would be. We met at St. Patrick's Church in Twin Mountain, geared up, and ran the shuttle down to Pierce Bridge. We had 14 paddlers - 13 kayaks and one canoe (guess who).

Boat Breaker
The day was sunny with temperatures in the mid-30’s as we headed out. The river was at a medium-low level – 3-feet, 500 cfs on the Bethlehem gage. The river starts off Class I/II down to the "Big Pine" turnout on Rt. 302 - this section was a little boney. From there, the river increases in difficulty to Class II+/III. The most difficult rapid is Boat Breaker just upstream of the take out at Pierce Bridge.

By the time we finished the clouds had cleared and we had an amazing view of Mount Washington covered in a fresh layer of snow on the way back to the put-in. I should have stopped and snapped a picture.

The crew at the put-in
Links:

Why we do this - the three types of fun

I was half way through a 3-hour drive up to the Ammonoosuc River when a story came on the radio (NPR) about the three types of “fun”. My wife often asks me why I do these trips, and I’ve never really had a good answer other than its “fun”. It all made sense as I listened to this story because not all “fun” is created equal.
  • Type 1 Fun is enjoyable while it’s happening - the sun is out, the water is warm, the scenery is great and the company is awesome. It is ”fun” the entire time you’re doing it. Like everyone else, I do plenty of these trips.
  • Type 2 Fun on the other hand might not be “fun” while it is happening, but it is “fun” in retrospect. The 3-hour drive up to the Ammonoosuc was not “fun”. Putting up with cold weather and cold water was not “fun”. The anxiety of running a new river with a new group of people was not “fun”. In retrospect though, it was a BLAST, and I would do it again in a minute. Type 2 Fun tends to get us out of our comfort zone. We push a little harder, but hopefully we are rewarded with improved skills and great memories.
  • Type 3 Fun is not “fun” at all – not even in retrospect. Afterward, you think “What was I doing?” and “I’ll never do that that again!”. It is what happens when you get too ambitious and too far out in front of your skills.
The Three Types of Fun is a concept that seems to come out of the hiking/climbing community, but it certainly applies to paddling. I realized after listening to the story that a lot of the whitewater and camping trips that I like to do are Type 2 Fun. Fortunately, I’ve never had a trip turn into Type 3 Fun - as least not yet. 

Monday, March 28, 2022

Broadmoor Wildlife Sanctuary - March 27, 2022

I didn’t see a paddling trip, so I decided to join Papa Joe and the crew for what for me would be the last Papa Joe hike of the 2021-22 season at Broadmoor Wildlife Sanctuary.

Broadmoor is a 624-acre Mass Audubon property with 9-miles of trails through a nice mix of woodlands and marshland. We took the Marsh Trail to the Indian Brook Trail, to the Glacial Hill Trail/Loop, to the Charles River Loop, to the Mill Pond and then back on the boardwalks of the All Persons Trail – about 4.5 miles. I was home in time to do some yard work.

Links:

Saturday, March 19, 2022

Playing Hooky - Fife Brook Section of the Deerfield - March 18, 2022

Heading out
The forecast for Friday was sunny and in the 70’s. I had nothing on my calendar at work, so I decided to “play hooky” and join Norma and Conrad for a run on the Fife Brook section of the Deerfield.

Deerfield River arises in southern VT and flows for 76-miles through VT and MA to join with the Connecticut River in Greenfield below Turners Falls. With an 1,100-foot drop, hydroelectric development began in 1910 when the New England Power Company was formed to acquire water rights and build hydroelectric dams on the river. There are now 10 dams on the Deerfield owned by three different electric utilities. An innovative licensing agreement in 1994 increased the number of recreational releases on the class II/III Fife Brook section, and the class III/IV Dryway.

Hangover Helper
We would be paddling the Fife Brook section, which is named for the Fife Brook Dam that controls its flow. The Fife Brook Dam was the last dam built on the river in the early 1970s. It was built in conjunction with the Bear Swamp Pumped Storage Facility, which uses excess power during slack hours to pump water up to a reservoir on top of a mountain so it can be released during periods of peak demand.

As I left my house I saw golf bags in a neighbor’s driveway, so I knew I wasn’t the only one planning to enjoy the day. There was heavy fog as I drove up Route 91 through the Pioneer Valley, but it lifted as I headed up Route 2 to Charlemont. We met at the take out below Zoar Gap for the shuttle up to the put-in.

Above Pinball
The Fife Brook Dam was releasing at 1,400 cfs, and the gage in Charlemont was between 1,800 and 1,900 cfs. Two tributaries - the Chickley and the Cold - flow into the Deerfield below Zoar Gap, so the Fife Brook Dam gage is a better indicator of the flow on this section. This would be the highest level that I had run this section of the river.

We put in at around 11:30 and began working our way downstream. We ran Hangover Helper, did some surfing at Carbis Bend and the ledge below Freight Train, and played in Pinball before taking a break at Miami Beach. We then ran the Island Rapid before pulling over at the take-out above Zoar Gap.

Break at Miami Beach
We had scouted Zoar Gap on the way up, and decided that we were going to pass. With only three paddlers in the group, the higher water level and my mixed record running this rapid (7 for 15 with 6 swims and 2 walks), I was OK with that. The “Gap” is by far the most difficult rapid on this section of the river – class IIII at normal release levels (800 cfs to 1,000 cfs.), and class IV with big waves and nasty holes at 2,500 cfs.

Prior to 2011 there was a sneak route on the far right, but street repairs after Hurricane Irene left rocks blocking that route. There is an upper drop, with a tongue on river right, and a pour-over river left. The "beginner" line is to ride the tongue on river right and then punch through the holes below. Conrad explains it here:


The "advanced" line is to catch the eddy below the pour-over and then go right into the eddy below the drop, or run the drop on the left. You can see Rick style the right line, and me swim the left line here:


Running Zoar Gap from Erik Eckilson on Vimeo.

Temp’s hit 74 degrees, so it felt like spring even though there was still snow on the ground.