Saturday, January 23, 2021

Noanet Woods - January 23, 2021

That's me!
It has been a while since I have been out on a hike, so I decided to join Papa Joe and the crew at Noanet Woods in Dover, MA.

Noanet Woods has 17 miles of trails adjacent to the Hale Reserve. We started our hike at the Powissett Street entrance, and hiked into the Hale Reserve and the Noanet Pond. From there, we hiked over to the Mill Ponds to check out the old mill site and dam. Then, we hiked up to the Noanet Peak to check out the view of Boston before heading back to the cars.

We had a special guest...

Monday, January 18, 2021

Crystal - January 17, 2021

Bike shuttle
So far this winter has been pretty good for paddling – lots of rain and not particularly cold. With the MLK holiday this weekend I wanted to get out to paddle at least one day. I sent an email to Paul, and he suggested Crystal. It’s been a couple of years since I had paddled there and it would be another opportunity to get my whitewater boat out, so it sounded good to me. 

Crystal is one of several whitewater runs on the Farmington River including New Boston (class III/IV), “Tville” or the Tariffville Gorge (class (II/III) and Riverton/Satan’s Kingdom (class I/II). Back in the day I took many trips out to Crystal to paddle with Matt and Scott. Its a long drive for a relatively easy run, so lately I have been out there less frequently.

Running one of many ledges
In these days of COVID, though, Crystal is a great alternative due to the easy bike shuttle on the Farmington River Trail that runs along side. We left our cars at the parking lot below the Red Barn off River Road and biked the 3-miles back to the put in on the bike path – it was great.

The river was at a nice level – 6.5’, 1,200 cfs. The day was warm, but there was a strong, gusting wind that almost blow me over in the flats above the Route 4 Bridge. 

Running the Route 4 Ledge
The run is a series of class I/II rapids that start off easy and get more difficult as you move downstream. The first major rapid is the site of the Punch Brook Slalom. From there, the rapids continue as a series of rock gardens and wave trains. 

Paul and I surfed and ferried our way down through the rapids. I think 1,200 cfs is about the perfect level – any higher and it starts to wash out, any lower and it starts to get boney. The largest rapid is the ledge above the Route 4 Bridge that we ran to the right. The run took about 2 ½ hours.

Below the Route 4 Ledge
Links:

Friday, January 8, 2021

Planning for Spring Camping - Connecticut River – McIndoe Falls to Bedell Bridge State Park or Bugbee Landing

Its time to start thinking about our spring camping trip. If we continue down the Connecticut River, the next section is Wilder Dam to Bellows Falls  - looks like a 3-night trip with one portage. We talked about doing it last spring, and then COVID hit.
 
We could also go back and do the section that we missed from McIndoe Falls to the Woodville. We section paddled Gilman Dam to McIndoe Falls. Then we started up again at Woodsville paddling down to Orford, skipping the section from McIndoe Falls to Woodville. We could paddle the section from McIndoe Falls to the Woodville staying at Stephen's Island or Fiddlehead Island. After portaging the Ryegate Dam, we would paddle past Woodville and stay the second night at Howard Island or Horse Meadow. If we did two nights we could take out at Bedell Bridge State Park, or continue downstream staying a third night at Vaughan Meadow and taking out at Bugbee Landing

Put-in - McIndoe Falls Access – mile 276 - small park on river left doubles as a hand carry access point.

First Night - Stephan's Island – mile 273 - peaceful island with sandy beach, towering pines, and rocky knoll.

Optional First Night - Fiddlehead Island – mile 273 - a large but often overgrown campsite located on the third wooded island in reach between McIndoe Falls and Dodge Falls. Rope swing!

Portage - Ryegate Dam – mile 272 - take out river left after sharp bend. Follow trail pass campsite, along edge of field, down an access road, and along a rough path to the river. Warning - put-in is rocky with difficult footing. (Length 0.3. Percentage wheelable: 0 .8)

Second Night - Howard Island – mile 265 - about 2 miles below the Woodsville Bridge. The northern campsite is located at the northeast end of this island with access on a moderately-sloped cobblestone bank. The southern campsite is at the southwestern corner of the island.

Optional Second Night - Horse Meadow – mile 262 - one of the first campsites established on the Upper Connecticut River, and recently re-established with the help of the Thetford Academy. Access is via a set of removable stairs situated just past the southern tip of the adjacent island.

Optional Second Night - Harkdale Farm – mile 259 - access on Vermont side at second large oxbow downstream of Howard Island, across from high eroding sand bank that meets small brook with fallen trees. (We stayed here last time.)

2-day Take-out - Bedell Bridge State Park – mile 255 - Boat ramp and picnic area at premier birding site.

Third Night - Vaughan Meadow - mile 253 - located on the Vermont side one mile below the old Bedell Bridge abutment. Located on a wooded bank after the river turns from SE to S, a few hundred yards north of the Bradford line. (we paddled by and missed this site last time.)

3-day Take-out - Bugbee Landing – mile  249 - the school allows camping in a mowed area adjacent to the boat launch. Paddlers planning to use the site are encouraged to contact the Bradford Conservation Commission in advance. Contact info: parks-recreation@bradford-vt.us 802-222-4727 ext. 210.

Three night trip is 28-miles with one portage at the Rygate Dam. Even below Woodville we would be able to stay at campsites that we haven't used before.

Wednesday, January 6, 2021

Campfire Cooking

When I was in second grade my father took a job up in New Hampshire. We lived in a small apartment in the city of Dover, and spent most of the summer at a seasonal campsite nearby. I remember swimming in the lake and sitting around the campfire at night, but other than marshmallows and the occasional hot dog on a stick, cooking was always done on the camp stove. 

Omelets on the stove
When I started canoe camping the camp stove came with me. For some trips freeze-dried food cooked with a Jet Boil stove was the order of the day. For other trips we loaded up coolers with fresh food, but when I was the chef the cooking was always done on the camp stove.

For some of my friends, though, cooking in camp means cooking over an open fire. Jonathan is a good example. He will often look at the simple fire ring that is the staple at many campsites with a bit of disgust. If he is planning to cook on the fire, he will deconstruct old fire ring and rebuild it in a “U” shape about 8” to 10” tall and just wide enough to support the grill. 

Sausage and foil-pack potatoes
When a campfire cook has passed through a campsite you can always tell by the fire pit. The pit will be clear of ash and debris allowing ample room for wood under the grill. If it is round, it will be large with multiple cooking spots depending on the type of cooking to be done and the heat needed. Or like Jonathan’s, it will be “U” shaped.

I’ve leaned that a critical part of campfire cooking is having the right wood. Firewood should be collected selectively to leave the site and scenery as undisturbed as possible. Softwoods are usually the easiest to find and burn the fastest. Hardwoods produce a cleaner, longer lasting fire and better coals.  

Cooking on the Big Daddy
Anything you can cook on the stove you can cook on the fire, but it takes the right equipment and some patience. The most important part of the cooking fire is the height of the grill – too low and it will be tough to get wood underneath, too high and it will take a lot of wood to produce enough heat. A grill grate at 8” to 10” seems to work best. 

You will also need pots, pans and utensils. A good frying pan and large pot are essential for group meals. For cooking, keep the fire contained under the pots and pans. You will also need a knife, spatula, serving spoon and tongs. Long handles make it easy to work around the fire, and fireproof gloves are a nice addition.

Grilling salmon and vegetables
The type of fire that you build will depend on the type of cooking you are doing. Grilling directly over the fire requires a nice bed of hot coals, so get the fire going early or you might be eating late. Foil packs are an easy way to cook fish, potatoes and vegetables, but are also easier on a well-developed bed of coals. Be sure to turn the food often since hot spots can develop and burn the food if you are not careful. 

Cooking in pans is easier, and you can cook directly over the fire without having to wait for coals. Shift the pans around to get the heat that you need and prevent hot spots. Patience is still required since temperatures on the fire don’t match those generated on the stove. 

Dutch oven cooking
The dutch oven is one of my favorite ways to cook in camp. Anything you can cook in your oven at home you can cook in a dutch oven - frittata or cinnamon rolls for breakfast; enchiladas, lasagna or chicken and biscuits for dinner; monkey bread, brownies or dump cake for desert. The trick to cooking in a dutch oven is balancing the heat on the top and the bottom, and regulating the temperature. Regulating the temperature is much easier with charcoal than with coals from the fire, so I usually bring it long. 

No doubt about it, cooking is one of the joys of camping, and cooking over the open fire takes it to the next level.

Breakfast fire
Links:

Saturday, January 2, 2021

New Year's Day on the Upper Winni - January 1, 2021

Heading out
New Year’s Day trips are a tradition for many northeast boaters. The superstitious among us believe that in order to have a good paddling year you must be out on the water on New Year’s Day. I don’t take it that far, but I do try to get out on January 1st whenever I can. This year I decided to join Jonathan, Conrad, and Nancy for an Icicle Run on the Upper Winni.

The Winnipesaukee River (otherwise known as the Winni) is a 10-mile river that that runs from Lake Winnipesaukee to Franklin where it joins with the Pemigewasset River to form the Merrimack. There are two whitewater runs on the Winnipesaukee. The Upper Winni runs from Tilton Road to Riverfront Park in Tilton. It’s an easy class I/II run that is the site of an annual slalom race. I have run it many times in the past. The Lower Winni runs from Cross Mill Road Bridge to Trestle View Park in Franklin. Its a class III(+) run that is above my comfort level in my canoe, but I did it a few years ago with the MVP in a shredder.

 

Running Cribworks
With the annual New Year’s Day release the river was at a nice level – 4.4 feet, 1,100 cfs. We met at 10:30 at the Holiday Inn on Route 140 (the usual put-in was iced in) for the shuttle. Jonathan suggested that that we walk-shuttle the 2-miles from the take-out across from River Front Park (behind the train museum) on the Winnipesaukee River Trail, which runs parallel to Route 3 from a little above Tilton center to Route 140. It worked great, and we met the group at noon as planed.  

Canoes outnumbered kayaks on this trip with 5 canoes (Jonathan, Nancy, John, Ken and Erik) and one kayak (Conrad). The river starts off with quickwater along Route I-93. The first railroad bridge starts the slalom course through First Trestle and Cribworks, followed by Second Trestle and waves below the School Street Bridge. It took us two hours to do the run, playing as we went.


The crew takes a socially distanced break
Links:

History of the New Year’s Day Paddle on the Lower Winni by Ken Norton

Skip Church asked me to give a history of the New Year’s Day Paddle on the Winnipesaukee River - here’s what I know….

With the potential for the end of whitewater paddling on the lower Winnipesaukee River on the horizon, the first formal New Year’s Day paddle began on January 1, 1998. Local developers, under the name Franklin Hydroelectric, had filed with the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission (FERC)in 1992 to study construction of a new hydro dam on the lower Winni (project no 11281-000). The proposed 150 foot long and 22-foot-high dam was to be located on the Franklin/Tilton town line just downstream of the bridge on Cross Mill Road. The proposal also included a 12-foot (later increased to 14 foot) diameter penstock running ¾ of a mile downstream to a hydro generating plant just above the Trestle in Franklin. The penstock would effectively dewater the river. Under the organizational name Friends of the Winnipesaukee River, I filed a motion to intervene with FERC on Behalf of the Merrimack Valley Paddlers (MVP), the Central Canoe and Kayak Club, Belknap County Sportsman Association, Basil Woods Chapter of Trout Unlimited, and Ducks unlimited.

In 1988, Friends of the Winnipesaukee River had previously intervened with FERC on a similar proposal on the lower Winni (project #10476-000). It is interesting to note that the Merrimack Valley Paddlers had declined to be included as an intervenor in that proposal stating the Lower Winni was “rarely” used by MVP members and due to it being “trashy (rebar debris etc.).” The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) also declined. From a historical perspective, the Winnipesaukee River carried raw sewage and was not considered a recreational resource until the completion of the Winnipesaukee River Basin project around 1980. The project laid sewer lines from Meredith/Center Harbor to Franklin and included newly constructed sewage treatment plants in Laconia and Franklin. With deference to the Abenaki and Penacook people who traversed the Winnipesaukee River for centuries, the first known modern day whitewater descent of the Lower Winni (I’m sure there were previous ones) took place around 1983/4 and included a cohort of NH’s best paddlers: Sonny Hunt, Mark Ciborowski, Brad Helfer, John Aldridge, Bill Zeller, and Jim Sindelar. (They were mostly canoers - WW kayaking was only starting to take off. The Perception Dancer which popularized and revolutionized the sport, came out in 1982) . Rebar poked a hole in Jim’s boat, and word soon spread in the paddling community to avoid the Lower Winni. However, seeing the potential for a great white water run, they returned armed with portable sawzalls and began removing rebar, dam remnants, trees, trash and other obstacles. Other paddlers including also took up the cause. But I diverge from the story…..

Unlike the previous dam proposals on the Lower Winni (there were 3 others in the past decade), this proposal had a high likelihood of moving forward. The developers were local and had constructed the Clement Dam in Tilton several years earlier. They had the engineering skills, knowledge of the Winnipesaukee River, and financial backing to pull it off. They had also been filing required reports with FERC and making progress on their proposal.

In an effort to foster mutual interests of paddlers and hydro producers, Friends of the Winnipesaukee had previously partnered with these developers on Earth Day events including tours of the Clement Dam. Based on that relationship, the developer agreed to a meeting at Cross Mill Road with myself Representing Friends of the Winnipesaukee River, and George May from the MVP to discuss their proposal and concerns of the paddling community and other interested parties. The meeting was sobering; the developer drove off leaving George and I standing on the bridge talking about the seriousness of the threat, the lack of any common interests between the proposed dam and paddling, and brainstorming strategies for how to generate more public opposition to the dam proposal. Solutions identified included having a high visibility New Year’s Day paddle which would increase the awareness and interests of recreational opportunities on the Lower Winni and engage local stakeholders in promoting those efforts and opposing the dam proposal.

Running the Winni on New Year's Day wasn’t entirely a new thing, the River Rats, a group of folks from the Lakeport area, had been doing it off and on in tubes, during the 80’s. Fred Zimmerman, one of the River Rats, had taken up whitewater paddling and Fred had invited a few kayakers to join the River Rats on one of their New Years’ Day runs in the late 80’s. It should be noted that cold weather gear then was pretty limited. Dry suits were relatively new and few paddlers had them. When I paddled with Fred and the River Rats on one of those runs, we had farmer john wetsuits and wore nylon shells/jackets over them. Fred wore Playtex gloves which he duct taped to his wrists. I wore nylon ski over-mitts. The following year Fred enticed a few more paddlers by offering lunch afterwards. He was a good cook and served shells stuffed with Ricotta and pieces of Italian sausage. His apartment in Northfield was tiny and could only seat two people at a time. There were only a few intrepid paddlers those first couple of years, and we would have a beer out in the parking lot and take turns going up to Fred’s apartment for lunch.

What was envisioned was building on this informal tradition by formalizing it. We would attract more paddlers by renting a hall/offering a warm place to change, and serving lunch afterward. We would encourage spectators by publicizing it, and doing it at a set time, not the old “MVP time” of whenever everyone finally showed up. And we would engage the media by issuing press releases, offering interview and quotes, and by changing the narrative from focusing on wild people paddling in the cold to people paddling in the cold for a cause - opposing the dam and promoting the Lower Winnipesaukee as a recreational resource.

The first year was a big success with about 30 paddlers and great media coverage locally, statewide and throughout New England. The MVP rented the Masonic Hall in Tilton, and Fred cooked for everyone. Momentum and coverage built over the next few years with less experienced paddlers doing the Upper Winni. We made a big splash in 2000, when we capitalized on the Y2K hysteria by hosting a Y2Kayak New Year’s Day Event. In subsequent years, Hall rental moved from Tilton to Franklin and Nancy Gero (and John) took over cooking/hosting duties. The MVP gave annual awards to local people who helped promote recreation on the Winnipesaukee River. With paddlers returning to paddle the Lower Winni throughout the year, the Franklin community began to embrace the event and the role recreation could play in Franklin’s rebirth. Toward that end, the economic development group Choose Franklin adopted the event as First Day Franklin and began setting up a warming tent for spectators and paddlers.

Another threat to whitewater paddling on the Lower Winni was safe take-out access. The takeout was the parking lot of The Silver Bullet, a nefarious Franklin bar. It was a Class III+ take out which included a poor eddy line, lots and lots of broken glass, and a crumbling 10 foot brick wall between the river and parking lot, which involved passing boats up over the wall and climbing a broken ladder to get out – or trying to climb the ladder with your boat. The bar burned down and the lot was put up for sale. Had it been sold and the river fenced or blocked off, it would have essentially ended paddling the Lower Winni as there were no alternative take outs. Having watched the growing numbers of paddlers, and with encouragement from the Winnipesaukee River Trail Association (WRTA), the Grevior family bought the land, put it into conservation easement for perpetuity, and worked with the WRTA, the City of Franklin, the National Park Service and others to create Trestle View Park which opened in 2005.

Faced with growing opposition and construction costs, uncertainties about electric utility regulation, and a city that was now embracing whitewater paddling and river recreation as a driver of economic development, plans for hydro development of this section of river were dropped. With the success of using the New Year’s Day paddle to highlight opposition to a hydro project which would have dewatered the Winnipesaukee River, the annual New Year’s Day Paddle has been used to raise awareness of other important issues including construction of the Winnipesaukee River Trail, and Trestle View Park, inclusion of a take-out ramp at Riverfront Park in Tilton (2006), proposed summer whitewater releases, and most recently construction of Mill City Park and New England’s first whitewater park. Whether a paddler, or spectator, come on out and join the fun on New Years’ Day!

Newspaper article from the Laconia Citizen on the 1998 run