Rapids, River Features and River Running Techniques

There was a post on CanoeTripping.com about running holes. It got me thinking about how rapids are formed, and what features you will encounter, and skills you will need to run a typical class II/III rapid.

How do Rapids Form

There are four main factors that combine to create rapids: water level, gradient, constriction and obstruction. Gradient, constriction, and obstruction are dependent on streambed topography.

Water Level

Water level is dependent on seasonal variation in precipitation and snowmelt, or on release rates of upstream dams. Combine the right water level with right streambed topography, and rapids will form. Too little water the rapids can be "boney". Too much water and the rapids "wash out".

Gradient

The gradient of a river is the rate at which it changes elevation along its course. This determines the river's slope, and to a large extent its rate of flow or velocity. Shallow gradients produce gentle, slow rivers, while steep gradients are associated with whitewater rapids. First Trestle, Mile-Long and the Gorge on the Upper Millers are examples of rapids where a significant drop in gradient increases the length and complexity of the rapids.

Constriction

Constrictions can form a rapid when a river's flow is forced into a narrower channel. This pressure can also cause the water to flow more rapidly increasing its velocity and its reaction to riverbed objects like rocks and drops. Zoar Gap on the Fife Book Section of the Deerfield and and the Funnel on the Lower Millers are examples of rapids where constriction greatly increases the flow and difficulty of the rapid.

Obstruction

Rocks and ledges in the river will obstruct the flow of the river creating river features like eddies, pour overs, holes and waves. The more water and the faster it flows, the larger these features become. Boulder type rapids are typical here in the northeast.

It is the combination of the water level and streambed topography that determines the types of rapids you will find on the river. The rapids on the Kennebec are formed when water gets funneled through narrow gorges creating long, towering wave trains. Seeboomic runs over a series of ledges creating pool drops. The Dead has boulder-type rapids with lots of holes and pour-overs.

Zoar Gap at dam release level. The river constricts and velocity increases as it drops over rocks and ledges creating eddies, pour overs, holes, shoots and waves.

River Features

Understanding the features of the river and how they will affect your boat is critical to running whitewater safely.

Rocks

You will find rocks on almost every river. Depending on the water level, some rocks may be above the water creating eddies, and others may be submerged creating pour-overs, holes and waves.

Eddies

Water moving downstream that hits an obstruction and goes around it rather than over it forms an eddy in the space downstream. Eddies can form in the middle of the river behind rocks, or on the sides due to changes in the shore line.

Located between the eddy and the main current is the eddy line. Eddy lines vary in size based on the level and speed of the water, and the size of the obstruction causing the eddy. Eddies have current that flow in the opposite direction of the main flow, but they are usually calmer than the surrounding current making them good places to wait and regroup before the next rapid.

Pour Overs/Holes

Water moving downstream that flows over a rock can cause a pour over. It resembles a small waterfall and often creates a hole on the downstream side of the rock. A hole can be friendly and make for a great surfing spot, or very unfriendly and a place to avoid.

The nature of a hole depends on the shape of the drop, the depth of the pool below it, and the speed and volume of the current. Water falling downstream over an obstacle will push downward until it hits the bottom. While the main current is pushing to the river bottom, the surrounding water slides upstream toward the foot of the drop to fill in the depression. This is called the backwash. Where the current surfaces again is called the boil line.

If the hole is big enough, things that float (like boats or people) get pulled back up into the seam between the drop and the boil line. These are known as hydraulics or reversals. If the boil line is a long distance from the pour over, it is more likely that floating objects will not escape, but cycle back into the hole repeatedly.

The shape of the hole will also determine its retentiveness. Smiley holes with the corners further downstream than the drop are generally safer than frowning hole with the corners upstream than the rest of the hole. Some of the most dangerous types of holes are formed by river wide ledges or low-head dams since the width make getting out of the hole very difficult.

Pour Overs/Waves

Waves are formed in a similar manner to holes – fast moving water runs over or down an obstruction forming a wave known as a breaking wave. If the breaking wave is big enough it can stop you (known as a “stopper”), fill you up, or and flip you over.

One notable difference between a wave and a hole is that a wave is less likely to be retentive and will generally flush a swimmer or boat after a flip. Riding the current into the face of a crashing wave, the current going under the backwash is exiting at surface level on the backside of the crest.

The Downstream V

When running rapids you generally want to follow the dark water through the rocks and other features. Dark water means there is a deep channels and no obstructions. It will often will resemble a tongue or a shoot.

Running the "dark water" or downstream V's is the principal strategy for safely navigating class II and III rapids. It marks the path of least resistance where the river bed is deepest, helping you avoid hitting rocks or getting stuck in shallow areas. Downstream V's often lead into "haystacks" or "standing waves".

Haystacks (Standing Waves)

Sometimes, when fast moving water runs into slower moving current, a long series of waves develops known as haystacks or standing waves. These standing waves or wave trains can be smooth, or particularly the larger ones, can be breaking waves or whitecaps.

Unlike ocean or wind-blown waves that move across the face of the water, haystacks do not move downstream. They stay fixed and the river moves through the wave. When running standing waves it is crucial to stay centered in the boat as you move up and down the face of the waves, and maintain a steady paddling cadence to maintain downriver speed and avoid getting stalled in the waves.

Picking a line through the rocky drops on the Wonalancet River 

River Running Techniques

Avoiding Rocks - Sideslips

One of the common mistakes that new paddlers make in rapids is trying to avoid rocks by turning broadside in the current. With enough space and enough forward momentum this can be successful, but often the canoe ends up getting pushed broadside on to the rock.

If you do end up broadside on the rock, lean into the rock ("love the rock") which will reduce the risk of wrapping the boat, and hopefully the current will eventually push you off.

A better approach to maneuvering around rocks is to sideslip around them. To sideslip your boat, you will use either static, active or sculling draws and pries to move the boat laterally across the river without turning broadside to the current.

A sideslip is efficient since it maintains forward speed and avoids the drag associated with turning or back paddling the boat. A back ferry (discussed later) can also be used to move the boat laterally, but is more difficult to set up and does slow the boat's momentum.

Eddy Turns and Peel Outs

Eddy turns and peal outs are other important river running skill. An eddy turn allows you to move from the main current into an eddy, and a peal out allows you to move from the eddy back into the main current. To do an eddy turn or peal out, you need to know your good friend "SAL" – Speed, Angle and Lean.

Speed - every eddy turn and peel out needs a bit of speed to get you across the squirrelly eddy line separating the downstream current in the main flow from the upstream current in the eddy.

Angle - you need to cross that eddy line at an angle – 45 degrees is typical, but you made need to increase or decrease the angle depending on flow.

Lean - when we say lean, we are talking about edging or a J-lean, not body lean. As always in a whitewater boat, you need to lean (or edge) the boat into the turn as you cross the eddy line, and maintain that lean as you complete the turn.  This is often called raising the "side of opposition". 

To do an eddy turn, you will accelerate your boat at around a 45 degree angle to the eddy line. Once the bow crosses the eddy line, you plant a Dufek (turning high brace) in the eddy and lean the boat into the turn. With the bow planted in the eddy, the stern will swing around, and you will now be in the eddy facing upstream.

To do a peal out the process is similar. Accelerate your boat at around a 45 degree angle to the eddy line. Once the bow crosses the eddy line, plant a Dufek (turning high brace) in the main current and lean the boat into the turn. With the bow moving downstream in the current, the stern will swing around and follow, and you will be moving back downstream in the current. 

The faster the current is moving, the more acceleration you will need to cross the eddy line, and the steeper the lean.

Ferrying

Another critical skill in safely running rapids is the ferry. Ferrying is the act of moving laterally across the river with minimal downstream drift. It can be done facing upstream or downstream, and allows you to slow your downstream motion to choose a path, and move laterally across the river to set up above a downstream V or deepwater channel. 

The ferry is initiated by paddling your boat at an angle somewhere between directly upstream and perpendicular to the main current in the direction that you want to move. The speed of the current will determine the amount of that angle.

As a general rule, the less angle you have (the closer you are to pointing directly upstream), the slower you'll move laterally and the more your paddle strokes will be working to keep you from drifting downstream. On the other hand, the more angle that you have (the closer you are to pointing directly across the main current), the more quickly you'll move across the river and the less your strokes will be working to keep you from drifting downstream. With experience, you'll learn what angle is most effective for what you are trying to do.

Running Holes and Waves

As methodical as you are trying to pick your way down a rapid, eventually you are going to have to run a drop or punch though a hole or wave. While small holes/waves can easily be run, large holes/waves can be your most formidable challenge when running rapids.

To punch a hole you need speed, and a well-placed stroke. Speed is important because you're going to be hitting a wall of aerated water at the bottom of the drop that will try to stop you dead. Take your last stroke just as you enter the hole/wave and use it to pull yourself through the aerated water. It's a good idea to punch a hole with your boat tilted slightly towards your paddle side. This will raise the "side of opposition" and help avoid a surprise flip to your non-paddle side.

Running the Gorge Drop on the Knightville section of the Westfield River

Paddling in Wind and Waves

Paddling in the Wind

What Causes Wind

Winds are caused by differentials in air pressure that cause air to move from high pressure to low pressure. Prevailing winds here in northeast are generally west to east, but local wind direction is more often determined by the interaction of storm fronts as they pass.  

Large bodies of water can also create their own wind, which develops when air over the land becomes warmer than air over the water. As warm air over the land rises it gets replaced by cool air from the water creating an on-shore breeze. This effect is most profound on the ocean, but can also be factor on a large lake. Winds caused by temperature differentials generally start several hours after sunrise, and dissipate in the early evening as the sun begins to set.  

Paddling in Wind

While wind can effect your paddling anywhere, it's effect is most profound in open water where can be tiring and make it difficult to maintain course.

When paddling in a headwind or tailwind, the trim of the canoe is important. Whenever possible, keep the canoe trim heavy up-wind. That means bow heavy in a headwind, and stern heavy in a tailwind.

In a beam wind paddle position is important. In a solo you will usually paddle from the downwind side so the boat's tendency to turn away from the paddle side is offset by the effect of the wind.  In a tandem the stern paddler usually paddles on the downwind side for the same reason. If the beam wind is strong enough, both bow and stern can paddle on the downwind side.

When paddling in the wind momentum is your friend, which often results in groups getting spread out on windy crossings. Groups need to make an extra effort to stay together in the wind.

Crossing the top of Umbagog Lake

Paddling in Waves

While paddling in the wind can be challenging, the waves that wind creates can be more difficult and dangerous. The size of wind-blown waves is a function of wind speed, the distance across the water (fetch), and the depth of the water. Wind-blown waves progress from small chop to larger rollers to breaking waves. 

Bigger waves need time and distance to develop, so early morning or the leeward side of a lake may be calm, but waves often build later in the day, and can be significantly larger on the windward side of the lake. As you are planning your trip, you need to anticipate how conditions will change over the course of the day.

Wind-blown waves tend to be relative short period (distance from crest to crest) making it more likely that a canoe will swamp while going into or coming up from the trough. It is easy for the bow to submarine coming down the face of the wave, or a following wave to dump into the stern as the boat slows climbing the face of the next wave. 

The usual tactic for dealing with waves is to quarter the canoe in to the waves at a 30-45 degree angle. This reduces the length of the canoe and presents more of the hull to the wave making it less likely that it will dive in.

When quartering waves the challenge is to keep the canoe from broaching in the trough as it moves down the wave face. The bow paddler needs to paddle hard to maintain momentum, and the stern paddler needs to be ready to rudder to keep the stern from slipping down the face of the wave into the trough parallel to the waves. 

Paddling parallel to the waves is challenging since the boat will naturally roll as it travels up and down the face of the waves. Paddlers need to remain upright and between the gunwales with J-leans.

Staying upright while paddling parallel to the waves can be very challenging in large rollers, and impossible in breaking waves. Rather than trying to paddle parallel to the waves it often makes sense to adjust your course, tacking so you can quarter the waves. 

Another option for paddling in a cross wind is to "aim-up".  Start you crossing by aiming up wind of your target, and let the wind push you where you need to go.  

This may take longer, but is often a safer route.

Small chop on Umbagog Lake

Strategies for Dealing with Wind and Waves

Here are a few time-tested strategies for dealing with wind and waves;

• Stay close to shore - rescues are easier, and conditions are usually more manageable close to shore.
• Paddle early/late in the day - winds are strongest and waves are biggest from mid morning until late afternoon. Paddling earlier or later can avoid the worst of these conditions.
• Plan lay-over days - sometimes when conditions are difficult is is best to plan a lay-over day, or just paddle another time.

Dead calm on Baskahegan Lake

Using a Throw Bag

Different throw bag sizes and styles

The throw bag is one of the most versatile pieces of equipment that a river paddler can carry. You can use it as a throw rope to belay a swimmer out of a rapid, as a static line or in a Z-drag to pull a boat out of a pin, as a rope to drag your boat or raise it up/down a drop during a portage, or to set up your dining fly or clothes line in camp. The bag that you choose depends on what you plan to do with it. 

Length of rope – for throwing, the length of the rope should be determined by the length that you can accurately throw. 50' is generally the minimum for a throw bag. 100' is better for setting up a pull, but may be too heavy and bulky to throw accurately. 75' is a happy medium

Setting safety below a drop

Diameter of rope – once again, the diameter of the rope will be influenced by its use.1/4" rope is light and easy to throw. 3/8" is stronger for pulls, but heavier to throw. 5/16" is a happy medium.

Type of rope – the rope should be colorful for visibility and float on the water to prevent snags and make it easy for the swimmer to grab. The material is usually Poly, Spectra or a combination of the two. Poly rope is soft, flexible and easy to grab and hold on to. Spectra rope is high strength, low stretch and stronger for pulling. Some higher end bags have a Spectra core for strength and a Poly wrap for comfort.

Bag – the bag itself is usually nylon, sometimes with a mesh section to facilitate drying. The bag should be colorful for visibility, with a large opening at the top to deploy and stuff easily, and durable enough for years of use. The bag will have a foam disk at the bottom for floatation, and a loop at both ends to attach a carabiner.

Additional paddler stabilizes the thrower

The "clean line principle" means designing a throw bag that is free of large loops and attachments that could snag on obstacles or people during a rescue. Following clean line principals makes the bag safer for throws, but less useful for pulls. If you have the room, it might be better to carry a smaller clean line bag for throwing, and a larger bag or rope for pulls.

Rescuing a swimmer with a throw bag takes practice. First you have to find the best place to perform the rescue. This should be downstream of the rapid with a clear place to stand, an unobstructed view for the throw, and a safe place for the swimmer to land.

Pin kit for a Z-drag

Before throwing get the swimmers attention by yelling “ROPE”. The throw can be underhand, overhand or side arm depending on the conditions. The throw should be timed to slightly lead the swimmer so the rope lands on their chest.

The swimmer will position the rope on the shoulder opposite the side that they are getting belayed into. Never wrap your hands around the rope. The swimmer also needs to be careful not to get wrapped up in the rope - especially around the legs.

Once the swimmer is on the rope, the thrower assumes the belaying position with the rope around their back and their feet wide for stability. For extra leverage, the thrower can sit down, or have other paddler hold on to the back of their PFD. In a dynamic belay, the thrower moves downstream to reduce the stress on the thrower and the swimmer until they reach easier water.

Attaching lines to the boat

The other principal use of the throw bag is pulling a boat out of a pin or off an obstruction. Like any other rescue skills, it’s essential that you practice this before you need it. The easiest pull is a straight pull with a static line. The rope is attached to the boat, and everyone pulls. Often this is sufficient to get the boat free.

If more power is needed, you may need to set up a Z-drag, which provides a 3:1 mechanical advantage compared to a straight pull. To set up a Z-drag you will need a pin kit with throw rope, a prusik, two carabiners, two pulleys and a sling. Here is how to set up the pull.

Step 1: Build an anchor by wrapping the sling around a sturdy tree or rock. Clip a carabiner and pulley through the sling.

Straight pull with a static line

Step 2: Secure the bag end of your rope to the boat. Run the tail end through the anchor pulley.

Step 3: Wrap the prusik loop as far back down the rope toward the load as possible. Clip the second carabiner and pulley through the prusik.

Step 4: Run the tail end of the rope through the prusik pulley and back toward the anchor. Pull on the tail end of the rope in the same direction as the main line is pulling on the boat.

Links:
Choosing a throw bag

Using a throw bag

Quick coil a throw rope
Setting up a Z-drag

River Signals from American Whitewater

 

Incident Management at Fort Wetherill - September 15, 2024

Discussing towing in the Dumplings

I decided to attend RICKA’s Incident Management session at Fort Wetherill. We regularly practice assisted rescues on trips, but this would be an opportunity to practice more advanced rescues in real conditions.

We met at 9:00 at Fort Wetherill. Seas were calm and wind was from the west as we launched. We paddled out around Bull Point to practice towing in the easy tidal current around the Dumplings. I got to try out my new tow belt with short (15-foot) and long (50-foot) tows. On my tow rope there are two carabiners to unclip - one for short tows and a second for long tows.

Demonstrating the scoop rescue

On short tows my tow belt worked fine. I towed one person by clipping on to one deck line with clip up. Clicking on to one line will allow the tow will continue even if the anchor holding the deck line releases. Clicking on from the bottom with the clip up reduces the likelihood the clip with hit something and release.

I towed two people (rafted tow) by running the tow line through one deck line of the assist boat and clipping into one line of the victim boat with the clip up. This allows the assist boat to reach the carabiner to unclip the line if needed. The short tow line works great when you need to get some quickly away from a hazard, like rocks.

Two paddlers out of the boat

The longer tow works better when you are towing for a long distance – especially in swells so you don’t get run over by the towed boat as it comes down the face of the swell. On long tows, the knot and clip in the middle of my tow line created drag and a one point snagged a clump of sea grass that made it tough to paddle. I might consider removing the second clip and daisy-chaining the rope for shorter tows.

After using the tow belt we practiced contact towing with the person being towed simply grabbing the deck lines of the rescue boat and pushing/pulling the bows/sterns together depending on which way we were going. We practiced pulling boats out of the rocks with tow lines and contact tows as we worked our way along the rocky coast over to Mackerel Cove.

Getting Tim back in his boat

As we rounded one headland we saw Kelly out of her boat holding her arm like she had a dislocated shoulder. Cam was able to get her back in her boat using a scoop rescue. The scoop rescue is used to float a tired or injured paddler into a partially submerged boat, which is then rolled back up, pumped out, and towed to safety with a rafted tow. 

The seas were choppier with winds from the south as we headed back out after lunch. If you spend enough time playing in rocks you will eventually come out of your boat, and Tim demonstrated swimming out of the rocks as a proactive way to get yourself to safer water. 

Reviewing the hand of god rescue

When you are in the water near the rocks, the first thing that you need to do is get yourself to a safe position the with kayak between you and the rocks. Then you can flip the boat over, attach the tow line to the boat, and aggressively swim out of the rocks, all while holding on to the paddle. Tim did fine, and once he was in calmer water Bill and Eric got him back in his boat.  

We worked our way back along the shore continuing to practice assisted deep water rescues, scoop rescues (I did an anchor tow on one), two-out-of-the-boat self-rescues using one boat as an outrigger to get the first paddle in, and hand of god rescues. 

More rescue practice

The hand of god rescue is used to right a kayaker that can’t come out of their boat because they are unconscious or just can’t get the spay deck off. It involves a tricky combination of pushing down on the inside edge while pulling up the outside to right the boat with the paddler still in it - not easy. 

We got back to Fort Wetherill around 4:00 after a long day of practice. I learned a lot, but also realized how much I still have to learn.

View to Newport as we had back to Fort Wetherill

Links:

My Pictures

Video of 2024 RICKA Sea Kayak Training Sessions

Deep Water Rescues

Swimmer out of the boat

The deep water rescue is a fundamental skill for all sea kayakers. It should be practiced until it is quick, efficient and can be done in a variety of conditions.

For the swimmer, the rescue starts with a wet exit – tuck forward, pull the grab loop to release the skirt, and push yourself out of the boat (hit the deck, pull the skirt, show the moon). Hopefully you can do all this while still holding onto your paddle. If for some reason you can’t find the grab loop, run your hands along the sides of the cockpit and release the skirt from the sides of the combing.

Rescuer empties the boat

Once out of the boat you need to keep hold of your boat and your paddle. Flip the boat over and move to the bow waiting for help, yelling “swimmer” or raising your paddle if necessary to get the rescuer’s attention. At this point the rescuer will come in to make contact with the swimmer's boat. It is usually best to come in at an angle, hook the boat with the paddle, grab the deck lines and once stable stow your paddle under the deck lines.

Once the rescuer has stable contact they need to empty the boat. The swimmer will move the rescuer’s bow or stern while the rescuer turns the swimmer's boat perpendicular, pulls the boat up on the deck and rolls it over to empty. Once the boat is empty, the rescuer needs to lift the boat slightly so the cockpit rim stays over the water as they roll it back upright. You usually only need to pull the boat up on the deck to about the front hatch.

Swimmer reenters the boat

Once the boat is empty, the rescuer will use the deck lines to move the swimmer’s boat alongside their own. It is usually best to orientate the boats bow to stern, but bow to bow is fine if that is easier. Either way the rescuer needs to hold on to the deck lines on the front deck to leave the rear deck free for the swimmer to enter.

With the boats in position, the swimmer moves into position to reenter the boat. If they still have their paddle, now is the time to pass it to the rescuer who can stow it in the deck lines or hold it across both boats to increase stability.

Swimmer back in the boat

The swimmer reenters the boat by pulling themselves up on the rear deck, reaching over to grab the deck lines on the rescuer’s boat, sliding their feet into the cockpit and scooting down into the cockpit, and rolling over to the outside of the rescuer’s boat back into the seat. You can also use a heal hook with the outside leg to roll up int the cockpit.

Once the swimmer is back in the boat, the rescuer will wait until any remaining water is pumped out, the spray skirt is attached and the swimmer has their paddle and is comfortable before releasing.

Rock Rescues

If you spend enough time playing in rocks you will eventually come out of the boat. How you respond depends on the conditions you are in and the availability of help.

The first order of business if you come out of your boat in the rocks is to get yourself into a safe position. You never want to be in between the rocks and the boat, so position yourself with the kayak between you and the rocks. Once you are in a safe position, you can begin to think about how to get out.

Swimming out is a proactive way to get yourself to safer water. If the distance is short, you can simply grab the boat and go. Flip the boat over, swim to the end of the boat furthest away for the rocks, grab the toggle, and aggressively swim out of the feature. You can either stow your paddle in the deck lines or hold it in your hands as you swim.

If the distance is longer, it may be easier to attach your tow line. Once again, get to the end of the boat furthest from the rocks, clip on your tow line and go. Once in calmer water you can pull in the boat, unclip and tuck the towline in your PFD to prevent it from getting tangled in the rocks, and do a self or assisted rescue.

If someone is nearby and the distance is short you can do a toggle tow. Flip your boat over, and move to the toggle at end furthest from the rocks. The rescuer paddles in and presents the bow or stern toggle for the swimmer to grab, and paddles out of the feature. Once in calmer water you can do an assisted rescue

If conditions are rough it might be better for the rescuer to use the tow line. The swimmer gets in the safe position on the rescuer’s boat while the rescuer clips the tow line on the swimmers boat and paddles out. Once in calmer water you can pull the boat to you and do an assisted rescue.

Once the rescuer has the swimmer out of the rocks, it is often helpful to have a third member of the team clip on to the rescuer’s boat for an anchor tow that prevents them from drifting back into the rocks during the rescue.

Interview on Boating Safety on NBC 10 News

Being interviewed on the front lawn
 by Molly Levine from NBC 10 News 

What would you say if you had 30-seconds to explain boating safety? This was my attempt in an interview with NBC 10 News after the death of two kayakers in East Providence at Omega Pond on July 4th. Omega Pond is not far from the Providence River where we paddled on July 4th.  Condolences to the families at this difficult time.

 

River Knives

There was a post on P.com on attaching a river knife to your PFD. I’ve had an NRS Pilot knife on my PFD for years – once you attach the clip the lash tab it is never coming off. To be honest, I’ve never been in a situation where I needed to use it for anything other than spreading peanut butter. The blade definitely rusts over time. When it gets too rusty I buy a new knife (cheap, so maybe you get what you pay for). They hadn’t changed the design in years, so the new knife still fit in the old clip. I knife I have is now in close-out, so I just bought one last knife

NRS Pilot River Knife

I never thought to actually try to cut rope with this knife until I saw this video. Just like in the video, it took 5-6 swipes to get through an old safety rope. I think the little cutting hook at the base of the blade made it harder to get through the rope. I had better luck with just the serrated section of the blade. On the newer version that hook is a lot smaller.

Just for kicks, I dug out my father’s old river knife – turns out it’s a Gerber Blackie Collins River Master. There are different versions of this knife, and all are rare and collectible. This is the version that I have. 

Gerber Blackie Collins
River Master Knife

With a longer blade and better serrations it usually cut through the rope on the first or second swipe. Leave it to my father – he always bought the good stuff. I’ve never used it as a river knife. It’s been in my kitchen kit for years. It still has a sharp factory edge, so I guess I’ll keep it there.

Lightning Safety

In the United States, an average of 66 people are killed each year by lightning. Especially for paddlers who spend a lot of time outside, lightning is a serious threat, and everyone needs to understand the risks, and know how to protect themselves.

Know the Weather Forecast

Modern weather forecasting is extremely accurate, so be sure to check the forecast before paddling. If the forecast calls for some chance of thunderstorms, cancel or postpone your trip and go another day – better safe than sorry.

Watch for Developing Thunderstorms

Even on the water it is a good idea to watch for storms. Thunderstorms are most likely to develop on warm summer days and go through several stages of growth, development and dissipation. On a sunny day, as the sun heats the air, pockets of warmer air start to rise in the atmosphere. When this air reaches a certain level in the atmosphere, cumulus clouds start to form. Continued heating can cause these clouds to grow vertically upward in the atmosphere into "towering cumulus" clouds. These towering cumulus may be one of the first indications of a developing thunderstorm.

Approaching Thunderstorms: When to Seek Shelter

If you can hear thunder, you are within striking distance of lightning, and should seek shelter immediately! The first stroke of lightning is just as deadly as the last. If the sky looks threatening, take shelter before hearing thunder. You can get struck by a storm that’s up to 10 miles away.

The 30-30 Rule

Use the 30-30 rule where visibility is good and there is nothing obstructing your view of the thunderstorm. When you see lightning, count the time until you hear thunder. If that time is 30 seconds or less, the thunderstorm is within 6 miles of you, and is extremely dangerous!

The threat of lightning continues for much longer than most people realize. Take shelter as soon as you hear thunder, and wait at least 30 minutes after the last clap of thunder before leaving. Don't be fooled by sunshine or blue sky!

Outdoor Activities: Minimize the Risk of Being Struck

During a thunderstorm, each flash of cloud-to-ground lightning is a potential killer. In addition to the visible flash that travels through the air, the current associated with the lightning discharge travels along the ground. Although some victims are struck directly by the main lightning bolt, many more victims are struck as the current moves in and along the ground.

There is no safe place outside in a thunderstorm. The only way to significantly reduce your risk is to get inside a substantial building or automobile as fast as you can. If you are stuck outside in a thunderstorm, you should avoid the following:

• Open areas including water – you don’t want to be the tallest object in the area.
• Hills, isolated trees, towers or utility poles - lightning tends to strike these taller objects.
• Metal conductors such as wires or fences - metal does not attract lightning, but lightning can travel for long distances through it.

If you are on the water you should get off the water at the first sight of lightning or sound of thunder. Avoid rocks and look for lower ground under uniform tree cover away from the water. Exposed sheds, picnic shelters, tents or covered porches do NOT protect you from lightning. Do not assume the storm is over until you haven’t heard thunder for about 30 minutes.

Crouching Can Help—But Lying Down Makes Things Worse

If you find yourself in a situation where you are exposed to the elements with nowhere to shelter, make yourself as small a target as possible. Crouch down with your feet together, hands on knees and your head tucked in. Don’t lay down on the ground. You want as little of yourself in contact with the ground as possible.

Be Prepared

Check the forecast, and cancel or postpone your trip if lightning is a threat. In the event of a storm, fully enclosed buildings with wiring and plumbing provide the best protection. If a sturdy building is not available, get into a car and close all the windows. Stay inside for 30 minutes after the last rumble of thunder.

Links:

National Weather Service Lightning Safety

River Rescue Clinic with Boston AMC – April 29, 2023

The crew get ready

I was looking through the AMC Activities, and saw that Conrad was coordinating a river rescue clinic for Boston AMC leaders at Zoar Outdoors. I signed up, but thought I would probably get bumped out by another leader. Fortunately, I didn’t.

I took my first swiftwater rescue class with the Blackstone Valley Paddled Club back around 2007. That class was also at Zoar Outdoor and focused on basic rescue skills such as safe and aggressive swimming, throw rope rescues and wading rescues. Shortly after that, I took a more advanced swiftwater course with the NHAMC that also covered strainers, rescue vests and rope-based rescues. Since it has been a while since I’ve had a refresher course, I was glad to get into this one.

Hand of God Rescue

This session focused on boat-based rescues with a minimum of equipment. With kayakers, this is the way most rescues happen these days. The session started with a discussion of trip safety, and what leaders should think about when planning and running a trip. 

After the classroom session we headed out to the river to review boat-based rescues including the “T” Rescue, Parallel/Side-by-Side Rescue, and the Hand of God Rescue. We also practiced emptying swamped boats and deep water recoveries. As a canoeist, its good to know that a Side-by-Side Rescue will work with a kayaker expecting a "T" Rescue.  Also good to know the best way to empty a swamped kayak. Those are skills I can use on the river.

Waiting for the next swim on Turtle Rock

After lunch we headed over to the Baby Gap (below Zoar Gap) to practice swimming and rescuing swimmers. We practiced swiftwater entries, safe/passive swimming, and aggressive swimming. We also practiced throw rope rescues, towing swimmers and a vectored Live Bait rescue.

Before packing up, we took a moment to remember Jocelyn Barrett, a frequent Deerfield paddler and active member of the community who passed away last week. It was a long, cold day, but definitely worth the time.  Glad I was able to participate.

Swimming below Zoar Gap from Erik Eckilson on Vimeo.

Links:

My Pictures

Dan's Pictures and Videos

River Rescue courses at Zoar Outdoor

My New Drysuit Is In

New drysuit on the Hunt River

I was getting dressed for a Tville run a couple of weeks ago and I ripped a hole in the latex bootie of my drysuit. To be honest, I’ve put on a few pounds and added a few inches around the waist over the past couple of years, so my old drysuit was getting tight anyway. I took this as an opportunity to buy a drysuit that is the next size up - more baggy than tight.

In the past I have always bought the NRS Extreme, but they only had the fire department rescue version in my size, so I decided to spend a couple of extra bucks and go for the Kokatat Legacy instead. Everyone always raves about Kokatat quality, so we’ll see. I forgot how tight the gaskets are when they are new. I can deal with it around my neck, but I had a hard time getting off over my head, so I decided to trim it.

I used a razor blade on a 4" can of ice tea. I found the more I stretched the gasket the harder it was to see the rings. Maybe just my bad eyes, but the 4" can worked fine - just tight enough that it stayed in place. I took one ring off to start - it was still really tight, rolled over on top of itself, and I still had a hard time getting back over my head. So I took off a second ring an it seemed just about right - tight enough to allow for some stretching with use but it lies flat and I can get it back over my head without too much of a struggle. 

Its funny that NRS seems to be the only manufacturer/retailer that says not to trim. I’ve always had NRS drysuits and I never had to trim them. Don’t remember them being particularly tight when they were new. This Kokatat had to be trimmed - I couldn’t have worn it the way it was. To quote Spirtboat on P-net - trim fearlessly! I have since fixed the bootie in my NRS Extreme, so I now have a sprare.

Cold Water Paddling

Winter is upon us, and for those of us who are year-round boaters, it is time for a reminder on the dangers of cold water paddling, and how to minimize your risk.

How cold is cold water?

"Cold water" is probably not a cold as you think. The American Canoe Association sets its thermal protection threshold at 60 degrees. For us in southern New England, water temperatures generally don’t hit 60 degrees until sometime in June, and remain above that threshold until sometime in October. That means anyone paddling from November to May is paddling in cold water conditions.

Water Temperature in Narragansett Bay

During the "off season", the water in southern New England can be very cold. Narragansett Bay reaches its coldest temperature (high 30’s to low 40’s) in late February/early March. While air temperatures increase quicky through the spring and early summer, water temperatures increase more gradually. The opposite is true in the fall when air temperatures drop quicker than water temperatures. Area rivers follow a similar pattern, but generally get 5 to 10 degrees colder in winter, and 5 to 10 degrees warmer in summer.

Why do we need to be concerned about cold water paddling?

There are three major risks resulting from cold water immersion - cold shock, physical incapacitation and hypothermia – and all three greatly increase the risk of drowning.

Cold shock comes first. It can happen the moment you hit cold water. Cold shock can cause a loss of breathing control often referred to as the “gasp reflex”. This is especially dangerous in rough water conditions where the ability to coordinate your breathing with wave splash is required.

Physical incapacitation comes next. Immersion in cold water causes your muscles and nerves to cool to the point that they simply stop working. In frigid water without protection you can lose the ability to use your hands in a matter of minutes, and the ability to use your arms and legs shortly thereafter, making a self-rescue or even an assisted rescue more difficult.

Hypothermia comes next. Hypothermia results from a drop in your core body temperature. To compensate, blood flow shifts from your extremities to the vital organs in your body core. This will eventually result in confusion and disorientation that can rob you of the ability to make sound judgments about your safety.

So how can you protect yourself if you are paddling in cold water?

Cold water immersion is a race against the clock, and for those who are not prepared, it can be a desperate race. When paddling in cold water conditions please remember:

Always, always, always wear your PFD

By keeping you floating at the surface, a PFD can reduce (but not eliminate) the risk of sudden drowning due to cold shock or physical incapacitation. Make sure that your PFD is properly sized and adjusted so it doesn’t rise up around your ears or slip off entirely.

Never paddle alone - three boats are recommended for safety

Physical incapacitation and mental disorientation are inevitable with cold water immersion, potentially making self-rescue impossible and assisted rescue more difficult. Paddling with a strong and knowledgeable group will increase your likelihood of getting back in your boat.

Keep the trip short, and well within the paddling ability of the group

We all like to push our abilities, but save long trips in difficult conditions for the warm water season. Don’t push the envelope in cold water conditions.

Dress for immersion in a wetsuit or drysuit

Beginners often make the mistake of under-dressing when the air is warm, but the water is cold. Since you can never rule out an unexpected swim, you should always dress for the water, not the air. Water is approximately 25 times more efficient than air at drawing heat away from your body, so you need protective gear like a wetsuit or drysuit to prevent excessive heat loss.

Layering for Paddlers

Boaters, like other outdoor adventurers, are wise to adopt a layering system for thermal protection. Layers allow you to add and remove pieces to match changing conditions, and help your body maintain a safe, comfortable temperature. These layers fall generally into three categories: base layers, insulating layers and outer layers.

Base Layers

Start with a moisture-wicking base layer next to the skin. Synthetic fabrics such as nylon, polyester and polypropylene work well since they don’t absorb water and move moisture from your skin. Stay away from cotton - it absorbs water, dries slowly and loses its insulating value when wet.

Insulating Layers

Insulating layers provide the thermal protection that allow you to remain warm, calm, and able to function while you’re in the water. Fabric based insulating layers hold in your body’s heat, but need to be kept dry under protective outer layers. Theses insulating fabrics include fleece, wool, and other insulating, non-absorbing materials. You can use multiple thin layers to adjust to a variety of conditions.

Neoprene is an insulating layer that will work well even when wet. Neoprene rubber contains thousands of tiny gas bubbles that slow down heat transfer. Neoprene “wetsuits” come in a variety of styles including “shorties”, "Farmer Johns" and separate shirts, jackets and pants. Farmer Johns (sleeveless wetsuits with full-length legs) are the most popular for paddlers since they protect the core and provide good freedom of movement, but they will need to be supplemented with additional layers in the coldest water. Wetsuits must fit tight to minimize the influx of cold water, and must be thick enough to provide appropriate insulation.

Outer Layers

Windproof and waterproof outer garments round out your cold water protection. An outer layer made with a material featuring a breathable coating or membrane is definitely preferable. This allows perspiration moisture to pass out of the garment, keeping the inner layers drier, and significantly increasing your comfort.

Splash wear is simply a waterproof outer layer that is designed to keep your under layers dry if you get splashed or rained on. If you’re using neoprene as your insulating layer, wearing a waterproof garment over it will cut down on evaporative cooling from the wet outer fabric of the wetsuit. If you go for a swim in splash wear, your inner layers will get wet.

Semi-dry wear is the next step in protection. These garments use neoprene gaskets, or a combination of neoprene and latex gaskets, to block water entry. Neoprene gaskets aren’t as efficient at keeping water out as latex, but they’re more comfortable and less expensive.

Drywear is the safest option for cold water paddling These garments use latex gaskets and booties to block water entry. This totally dry system allows you to customize your comfort and protection level by adjusting your insulating layers to match weather and water conditions.

Protect your extremities with a hat, neoprene gloves and warm footwear

Your mom always told you to wear a hat when it’s cold outside, because much of your heat escapes from your head. The same is true when paddling. If you are wearing a helmet, a helmet liner is a good investment. When it’s really cold, a neoprene balaclava is warmer than a helmet liner, and provides extra protection around the neck and face.

To keep your hands warm you have two main options: neoprene pogies or gloves. Neoprene gloves protect your fingers, but can hold water and reduce your grip on the paddle shaft. Pogies, on the other hand, don’t hold heat quite as well but drain easily and allow direct contact between your hand and the paddle. Try them both, or in combination to see what works best for you.

Neoprene boots are the preferred footwear when the water is cold. A wide variety of boots are available, most of which come with rubber soles to provide grip and protection when you walk on rocks.

Test your gear in real conditions

How will you know if you have the right gear and can function in cold water? Take a plunge to try it out. Do this in safe conditions with buddies nearby just in case. Testing will confirm that you can use your gear smoothly and effectively - even when you're under stress in cold water.

Don’t fall for excuses

There are lots of excuses from folks who don’t want to be bothered preparing for cold water paddling. Excuses like:

• I’m not going to capsize.
• The gear is too expensive.
• I brought extra clothing and warm drinks.
• I’ll paddle “close to shore” or in “protected waters”.
• I won’t encounter “challenging conditions".
• I paddle with a group and can quickly get back in my boat.
• It’s not that cold and I don’t want to overheat.
• It’s just a quick trip.

In cold water, it is not an exaggeration to say that excuses can kill you. Paddle safe, paddle smart and always prepare for the conditions.

Links:

Center for Cold Water Safety