Open Boat, Moving Water - A Paddler's Journal: West Branch of the Penobscot/Lobster Lake

Monday, May 25, 2026

West Branch of the Penobscot/Lobster Lake - May 19-24, 2026

Checking in at Telos Checkpoint

Back in March, Jonathan and I started planning our spring camping trip. We decided on a Maine classic – the West Branch of the Penobscot and Lobster Lake. Unfortunately, Jonathan had to bow out due to family obligations, but Bill, Aaron, Matt and I had a great time on the trip. I paddled tandem with Bill in my Spirit II.

The Penobscot River drains much of vast wilderness area in north central Maine known as the North Maine Woods. With is four branches (North, South, East and West), the Penobscot is the second largest river system in Maine (behind the St. John) and the longest entirely in the state. The North Branch and South Branch combine to form the West Branch at Seeboomic Lake. The West Branch and East Branch converge in Medway to form the main stem of the Penobscot

Paddling down Lobster Stream

The classic canoe camping trip on the West Branch of the Penobscot is to put in below Roll Dam and paddle about 7-miles to Lobster Lake. After a night or two on Lobster Lake, paddle 15-miles to Chesuncook Lake, and then 19-miles down the lake enjoying the great views of Mount Katahdin to the east.

We did not do anything that ambitious. We put in at Lobster Stream and took out at Umbazooksus West on the northeast corner of Chesuncook Lake - 5 days, 4 nights with a stop at Lobster Lake.

Sandy beach at Ogden Point Campsite

We met on Tuesday night at Matt’s house on Cousin’s Island in Yarmouth, ME. Matt treated us to a great chili dinner, and we talked and enjoyed the great views of Casco Bay until bedtime at around 10:00.

We were up early on Wednesday for the drive to Northwoods Outfitters in Greenville, who would be providing our shuttle. We had our boats and gear loaded by 9:00, and we were on our way. It was a 3-hour drive to Lobster Stream on the dirt logging roads. After unloading our gear and a quick lunch we were on our way down Lobster Stream to our first campsite on Lobster Lake – Ogden Cove.

Paddling down the Penobscot River

As its name suggests, Lobster Lake shaped like a giant lobster claw. It is celebrated for its white sand beaches and mountain views. The wind was out of the northwest as we began our crossing from Lobster Stream toward Ogden Point, giving us a tricky tail wind. Everyone arrived fine, and we begin setting up camp and gathering fire wood.

The winds continued to pick up over the afternoon, with significant gusts in the late afternoon and early evening. We found whatever shelter we could, and had to rebuild the firepit with a larger wind screen in the back before lighting a fire. We cooked dinner, enjoyed a beautiful sunset and sat around the fire until around 10:00 when we called it a night. Total paddling for day 1 – about 3-miles.

Pine Steam Campsite

The winds were still blowing when we got up on Thursday. The original plan was to explore Lobster Lake, and perhaps hike up Lobster Mountain, but we were concerned about the afternoon wind. Instead, we decided to head back to the river where the wind would be more manageable. With the decision made, we packed up camp and were crossing back over Lobster Lake into a strong headwind by 9:00.

Once again, everyone crossed with no problem. We took a quick break at the Lobster Stream put-in before continuing down the Penobscot River. Our objective was to get to the campsite at Pine Stream, which is one of the most popular on the river. We passed numerous empty sites along the way, and we were surprised that there weren’t more people on the river on the lead-up to Memorial Day weekend.

Paddling Pine Stream

The river is mostly flatwater, with the exception of some easy rapids along Big Island. Unfortunately, Bill and I ran up on a rock and dumped into the river. I was able to grab the boat, get it turned over (good thing everything was strapped in), and wade it over to shore. Bill had a little rougher time on the slippery rocks, but he eventually got to shore and into some dry cloths.

We were back on our way, and made it to Pine Stream at around 3:00. We set up camp, gathered wood, prepared diner, and enjoyed another amazing sunset. After the long paddle, much of it against the wind, I was in bed early – around 9:00. Total paddling for day 2 – around 18-miles.

Gero Island 1 Campsite

Friday was a lay-over day, so we slept late and enjoyed a nice breakfast with sausage, egg and cheese sandwiches. We took it easy until around 2:00 when we headed out to paddle Pine Stream, a slow moving tributary of the West Branch. It started off as woodlands, and eventually became a large marshland. After about 5-miles we decided to turn around.

Back in camp we cooked dinner and apple crisp for dessert in the reflector oven. We enjoyed and other great sunset before heading off to bed. Total miles on day 3 - around 10-miles.

View of Mount Katahdin

The wind was calm when we got up on Saturday. We prepared breakfast and headed off for the short trip to Chesuncook Lake. When we arrived at Chesuncook, the lake was calm and we crossed over to campsite 1 on Gero Island. We set up camp, had lunch and did a second afternoon paddle to a pretty cove on the north east corner of Chesuncook with great views of Mount Katahdin. Back in camp we cooked dinner, and Matt baked orange-cranberry scones for dessert in the reflector oven. We enjoyed and other great sunset before heading off to bed. Total miles on day 3 - around 10-miles.

We got up early on Sunday for the short trip to Umbazooksus West to meet the shuttle. We arrived around 10:00, and the shuttle arrived around 10:30. We were back in Greenville at around 2:00 and got on the road after a quick lunch. Total miles on day 5 – about 5-miles. No rain on the trip, but it poured on the way home – that’s the way it should be.