Swans Falls on a the Saco |
I looked
in the rear view mirror as I crossed over the Massachusetts line into New Hampshire,
and saw the sun just beginning to rise. The traffic heading south was
bumper-to-bumper, but fortunately I was heading north for a few days of
paddling in Maine with my friend Jonathan.
Since I
missed the Allegany camping trip with the RICKA Wilderness crew, I had hoped to
squeeze in a few days of camping before winter set in. Jonathan, who recently
retired, was more than happy to join me. Unfortunately, a forecast for cold and
rainy nights convinced us that day-trips from Jonathan’s house in Wiscasset, Maine
would be a more comfortable option. The plan was to start in Fryeburg for a
trip on the Saco River, and then head east for a trip on the Sheepscot River in
Wiscasset with its famous Reversing Falls.
I
met up
with Jonathan in Conway to check out the Conway Rips (a small class II
rapid) before heading over to Fryeburg to run the shuttle. As we paid to leave
a car at the Swans Falls Camping Area, the attendant looked concerned and commented that
it “might be a little cold on the river today”.
“No problem” said Jonathan, “we have our drysuits”.
Jonathan |
The Saco River arises from Saco Lake at Crawford Notch in
the White Mountains and flows 136 miles generally southeast through New
Hampshire and Maine before emptying into the Atlantic Ocean at Saco Bay. There
are several exciting whitewater runs on the Saco as it tumbles down the White
Mountains, but today we would be paddling the flatwater section below Fryeburg. This is an extremely popular run in the summer when hundreds converge on this
section of the river for weekend camping and paddling trips.
Fiddlehead |
What is now
the "official" course of the Saco River was actually constructed as a canal in the
1800’s to make transportation on the river easier. The 6-mile long “Canal
River” is 15-miles shorter than the “Old Course”, which still twists and turns
to the north, reconnecting with the “Canal River” a few miles below Fiddlehead.
I paddled a mile or so up the “Old Course” just to say I did while Jonathan did some fishing.
Sheepscot Village |
We awoke the
next morning to frost and a temperature of 28˚. It was nice to be in a warm house
rather than a cold tent. We had a leisurely breakfast waiting for the tide to
come in before heading out to paddle the Sheepscot River
from Sheepscot to Wiscasset. This section of the Sheepscot River couldn’t be more different
than the section of the Saco that we had paddled the day before. While the Saco was a beautiful freshwater river, this section of the Sheepscot is a saltwater estuary – wide,
windblown and subject to the tides.
Wiscasset |
A Bald Eagle
followed us as we paddled back up the Sheepscot River. By the time we reached Sheepscot
Village, the Reversing Falls was flowing. Surfing the waves would have been a
little too much for our tandem canoe, but I’d like to come back with my
whitewater boat sometime. It would be fun trip for a summer afternoon when the inevitable swim would be more enjoyable.
Reversing Falls at low tide |
And by the way, with these trips in Maine, I've now paddled in all six New England states this year - first time I have done it!
Reversing Falls with Jonathan's trusty Explorer |